History

Raggmunk codified in 19th-century rural Sweden as a use-up dish for grated leftover potatoes. The word raggmunk means hairy monk (the texture of the strands of grated potato). The dish entered Stockholm's bruna krogar through working-class migration north and remains on every husmanskost menu. Pelikan on Blekingegatan and Lilla Ego's modernised version with löjrom are both reference Stockholm interpretations.

Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy, Egg

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 25 minTotal 30 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 1 kg floury potatoes, peeled
  • 2 large eggs
  • 200ml whole milk
  • 100g plain flour
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon white pepper
  • 60g butter for frying
  • 300g streaky bacon
  • Lingonberry jam to serve

Method

  1. Grate the potatoes on the coarse side of a box grater. Press out the moisture in a clean cloth, removing as much liquid as possible.
  2. Whisk the eggs, milk, flour, salt and white pepper into a smooth batter. Stir in the grated potatoes.
  3. Fry the bacon in a hot pan until crisp; set aside on paper.
  4. Heat 15g butter in a wide non-stick pan over medium heat. Spoon a small ladle of the potato mixture in, spread to a 12-15 cm pancake. Fry 4 minutes a side until deep golden and crisp.
  5. Keep cooked raggmunkar warm in a low oven while you cook the rest, adding more butter to the pan each time.
  6. Serve the raggmunkar with the crisp bacon on top and a spoon of lingonberry jam on the side.

Tip from the editors. Pressing the moisture out of the grated potatoes is the make-or-break step; the wetter the mix, the soggier the pancake.

Where to eat raggmunk (potato pancake)

Raggmunk (potato pancake) in Stockholm

Pelikan ★ 4.3

Swedish Husmanskost$$sodermalm

Pelikan on Blekingegatan in Stockholm's Södermalm has cooked husmanskost in the vaulted 1904 hall since the Pelikan name moved from Gamla Stan, meatballs.

Signature: Meatballs with cream sauce and lingonberry, Sillbord pickled herring board

Order: The meatball plate with mash, brown sauce, lingonberry and pickled cucumber.

Tip: The smaller dining room is calmer than the big hall. Skip the queue by booking the bar counter online.

Tradition ★ 4.2

Swedish Husmanskost$$gamla-stan

Tradition on Österlånggatan in Stockholm's Gamla Stan is a tight Old Town room cooking the Swedish home-canon: pyttipanna, kåldolmar, raggmunk and Toast.

Signature: Pyttipanna Swedish hash, Toast Skagen with bleak roe

Order: Pyttipanna with pickled beetroot and fried egg; the Thursday ärtsoppa with pancakes is the rule.

Tip: Closed Sunday. Lunch is the better sitting; the kitchen runs the dagens lunch sub-150 kronor.

Tennstopet ★ 4.2

Nordic$$vasastan

Tennstopet: 1907 journalist's pub on Dalagatan; tourists head to Pelikan but locals know this bar runs later on weeknights with the same husmanskost.

Why locals love it: 1907 journalist's pub on Dalagatan; tourists head to Pelikan but locals know this bar runs later on weeknights with the same husmanskost.

Tip: Open seven days; kitchen until 23:00. Bar until 02:00 on Friday and Saturday.

Lilla Ego ★ 4.6

Modern Swedish$$$vasastan

Lilla Ego on Västmannagatan in Stockholm's Vasastan is the Michelin Bib Gourmand neighbourhood room run by three Chef of the Year winners; Daniel Räms still.

Signature: Crispy raggmunk potato pancake with löjrom, Wine-and-snacks bar counter plates

Order: Raggmunk with bleak roe; the bar-counter shot of fulbubbel is the house ritual.

Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Walk-in seats at 17:00 are how locals get in; reservations book three weeks ahead.

Kvarnen ★ 4.3

Nordic$$sodermalm

Kvarnen is on tjärhovsgatan in södermalm since 1908; oak-paneled hall the tour buses miss because the stieg larsson tie keeps it on the locals' track.

Why locals love it: On Tjärhovsgatan in Södermalm since 1908; oak-paneled hall the tour buses miss because the Stieg Larsson tie keeps it on the locals' track.

Tip: Walk through to the back room: the Czech beer hall pours small-brewery picks until 03:00 on Friday and Saturday.

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