History

Paul Kahan and Donnie Madia opened The Publican on Fulton Market in October 2008, four blocks from the old Union Stockyards, with a menu built around pork. The bone-in heritage chop (from Becker Lane Farm in Iowa and Slagel Family Farm in Illinois) became the room's signature: brined in rosemary and sage, hard-roasted, sliced thick off the bone, served family-style with mustard and braised greens. The dish reframed Midwest fine dining around its agricultural backbone. Kahan's One Off Hospitality group spun off Avec, Big Star and Publican Quality Bread from the same block.

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Make it at home

Yield 2Hands-on 30 minTotal 24 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1 bone-in pork rib chop, 4 to 5cm thick (about 600g)
  • 1 litre water
  • 60g fine salt
  • 30g brown sugar
  • 4 sprigs rosemary
  • 4 sprigs sage
  • 1 head garlic, halved
  • 10 black peppercorns
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon coarse mustard
  • 1 bunch Tuscan kale or mustard greens
  • 2 cloves garlic, sliced
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • Sea salt, black pepper

Method

  1. Bring 200ml of the water to a simmer with the salt, sugar, rosemary, sage, halved garlic and peppercorns. Stir to dissolve. Combine with the rest of the cold water in a deep container. Submerge the chop and brine overnight (18 to 24 hours).
  2. Heat the oven to 220C (425F). Lift the chop out, pat very dry, rest 30 minutes at room temperature.
  3. Heat the olive oil in a heavy oven-safe pan over high heat until smoking. Sear the chop on each face 3 minutes, then on the fat-cap edge 2 minutes, until deep gold all over.
  4. Transfer the pan to the oven for 8 to 10 minutes, until a probe in the thickest part reads 60C (140F). Rest the chop on a board 8 minutes.
  5. While the chop rests, wilt the greens in a separate pan with the sliced garlic and butter, 3 minutes. Season.
  6. Slice the rested chop off the bone in 1cm pieces. Spread the mustard on the plate. Lay the slices over. Pile the greens alongside. Pour any board juices over.

Tip from the editors. Brine for 18 hours, not 36. Longer turns the meat from juicy to ham-textured.

Where to eat publican-style pork chop

Publican-style pork chop in Chicago

The Publican ★ 4.6

$$$ New AmericanWest Loop

The Publican in Chicago is Paul Kahan's Fulton Market mead-hall, opened 2008, anchored by the heritage pork chop and a daily oyster list of 20 to 30.

OrderPublican-style pork chop for the table, with one of the ham flights.

TipThe walk-in counter at the bar is first-come, first-served and turns over fast. Aim for 17:30 if you cannot book.

Directions Book

avec ★ 4.5

$$$ MediterraneanWest Loop

avec in Chicago is the cedar-walled Mediterranean wine bar next to Blackbird's old space, with the dates-wrapped-in-bacon plate that has run since 2003.

OrderThe chorizo-stuffed bacon-wrapped dates; on the menu since opening for good reason.

TipThe communal seating means a walk-up at 17:00 usually beats waiting for a table. Bring a friend who likes elbows.

Directions Book

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