History

Bresse chicken, the only French poultry with full AOC protection since 1957, anchored the Sunday-roast tradition that runs through Paris bistros from the 19th century. Marie Antoinette's chef, Pierre Beauvilliers, codified the rotisserie roast at his Palais-Royal restaurant in the 1790s. Bouillon Pigalle and La Rôtisserie d'Argent now anchor the dish at scale, with whole birds for two on the rotisserie. Modern Paris bakeries with rotisseries, including the Saturday Marché des Enfants Rouges, sell take-away versions for €15 a bird.

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 15 minTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 1 free-range chicken, 1.8 to 2kg, at room temperature for 1 hour before roasting
  • 30g unsalted butter, soft
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 lemon, halved
  • 4 sprigs thyme, 4 sprigs tarragon
  • 1 head garlic, halved across
  • Sea salt flakes, freshly ground black pepper
  • 800g waxy potatoes, peeled and halved

Method

  1. Preheat the oven to 220°C. Rub the chicken inside and out with salt 1 hour ahead.
  2. Pat dry, rub the breast skin with soft butter, season with salt and pepper. Stuff the cavity with the lemon halves, herbs and garlic.
  3. Set the chicken breast-up on a rack in a roasting tin, scatter the potatoes underneath, drizzle with olive oil and salt.
  4. Roast for 20 minutes at 220°C, then reduce to 180°C and roast a further 50 to 60 minutes until the juices at the thigh run clear and the breast reads 72°C.
  5. Rest the bird for 15 minutes uncovered. Tilt and pour any cavity juices into the roasting tin, scrape the brown bits, deglaze with 100ml water for a quick jus.
  6. Carve at the table: legs first, then breasts off the bone, serve with the potatoes and jus.

Tip from the editors. Pre-salt the chicken 1 hour ahead and dry on a rack for crisper skin than oiling it just before the bird hits the oven heat.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat poulet rôti

Poulet rôti in Paris

Bouillon Pigalle ★ 4.1

Until Open until 00:00

Bouillon Pigalle in Paris pours classic bouillon dishes until midnight. The room seats 300; the wait is shorter after 22:00 and the price holds through the night.

Try: Bouillon classics

Tip: After 22:30 the queue thins. Order onion soup, steak tartare and île flottante for the late triple.

La Rôtisserie d'Argent ★ 4.2

French bistro€€5e

La Rôtisserie d'Argent in Paris is La Tour d'Argent's bistro annex on the Seine. The Bresse chicken comes off the rotisserie in the room, no a la carte.

Signature: Rotisserie chicken, Frites cooked in beef fat

Order: Quarter Bresse chicken, frites in beef fat, the famed pressed-duck dessert.

Tip: The terrace catches the Notre-Dame light; ask for table 4 by the window in spring.

Robert et Louise ★ 4.3

French regional€€3e

Robert et Louise in Paris's 3e has grilled côtes de bœuf over an open log fire in the dining room since 1958. Booking required for the fireside tables.

Signature: Côte de bœuf grilled on log fire, Aligot

Order: Côte de bœuf for two grilled in the room, aligot from the Aubrac.

Tip: Two seatings only, 19:30 and 21:30. Closed Sunday. Sit close to the fire in winter.

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