History

Poke (Hawaiian for 'to cut crosswise') was pre-contact reef-fish scraps tossed with limu salt at the shoreline. The dish came onto the modern Hawaiian table when Foodland and Tamashiro Market in Kalihi began selling prepared shoyu-ahi poke from the 1970s. Maguro Brothers Hawaii in Chinatown's Kekaulike Market formalized the sashimi-grade fresh-from-the-Honolulu-Fish-Auction version in 2014. Foodland Farms Ala Moana now runs a 20-variation poke bar; Ono Seafood in Kapahulu sells the most-affordable two-scoop bowl in the city.

Common allergens: Fish, Soy

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4 as a starterHands-on 15 minTotal 15 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 500g sashimi-grade yellowfin or bigeye ahi, cut in 1.5cm cubes
  • 60ml shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)
  • 30ml toasted sesame oil
  • 1 small sweet maui onion, finely diced
  • 2 green onions, thinly sliced
  • 1 teaspoon Hawaiian sea salt
  • 1 teaspoon roasted sesame seeds
  • 20g dried ogo (limu) seaweed, rehydrated and chopped
  • Optional: 1 teaspoon crushed inamona (roasted kukui nut), or use macadamia

Method

  1. In a non-reactive bowl combine shoyu, sesame oil, Hawaiian salt and inamona. Stir to dissolve the salt.
  2. Add the diced ahi and toss gently so every cube is coated. Do not overmix; the cubes should stay distinct.
  3. Fold in the sweet onion, green onion and rehydrated limu. Taste and adjust shoyu or salt.
  4. Cover and refrigerate 10 to 20 minutes for the flavours to settle. Do not marinate longer; the fish will start to cure.
  5. Finish with sesame seeds at the table. Serve over rice as a bowl, or by the half-pound on its own.

Tip from the editors. Sashimi-grade fish only. If your fishmonger sells it labelled for raw consumption, you are safe; if not, freeze 24 hours at -20C first.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat poke

Poke in Honolulu

Ono Seafood ★ 4.5

Why locals love it: Tourists go to Foodland for poke; locals come to this Kapahulu storefront for the sashimi-grade shoyu ahi at half the price.

Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. No inside seating; sells out by 16:00 weekends.

Foodland Farms Ala Moana ★ 4.4

Daily 06:00 to 22:00

Foodland Farms Ala Moana in Honolulu is the flagship of the local grocery chain that calls itself Hawaii's Home for Poke, with a 20-variety poke bar and prepared food hall.

Tip: The Mauka Makai poke counter at the back of the store is the canonical Foodland order; bento and pipikaula at the deli.

More cities are in research. Want poke covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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