History

Pīrāgi entered Latvian baking through Polish-Lithuanian rule in the 16th and 17th centuries, evolving from Eastern European pierogi into a smaller, baked (rather than boiled) Latvian form. The pastries became central to Latvian holiday tables, with families baking 100+ at a time for weddings and Christmas. Centrāltirgus runs Riga's strongest pīrāgi counters, baking trays through the day. The classic filling is diced bacon and onion; modern bakeries offer carrot, cabbage and even sweet versions.

Common allergens: Gluten, Pork, Eggs

Make it at home

Yield 24Hands-on 45 minTotal 3 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • For the dough: 500g plain flour, 250ml warm milk, 100g butter melted, 1 egg, 50g sugar, 7g dry yeast, 1 teaspoon salt
  • For the filling: 300g smoked bacon finely diced, 1 large yellow onion finely diced, black pepper
  • Egg wash for finishing

Method

  1. Activate the yeast in warm milk with sugar; let foam for 5 minutes.
  2. Combine flour, salt, melted butter, egg and yeast mixture in a large bowl. Knead until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Cover and let rise for 90 minutes until doubled.
  3. While the dough rises, fry the diced bacon over medium heat until just starting to crisp; add the diced onion and cook until translucent. Drain off excess fat, season with black pepper, cool.
  4. Punch down the dough. Divide into 24 walnut-sized pieces. Roll each into a flat oval about 8cm long.
  5. Place a teaspoon of bacon-onion filling in the centre of each oval, fold over to form a crescent, and pinch the edges firmly to seal. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
  6. Let rise 20 minutes. Brush with egg wash. Bake at 200 degrees Celsius for 18 to 22 minutes until deep golden. Eat warm.

Tip from the editors. Pinch the edges hard; if pīrāgi open in the oven the filling leaks. Some bakers double-fold the seam for insurance.

Where to eat pīrāgi (bacon-onion pastry pockets)

Pīrāgi (bacon-onion pastry pockets) in Riga

Centrāltirgus Pīrāgi Counters ★ 4.3

Brunch€centraltirgus-maskavasMon-Sun 07:30-18:00

The Centrāltirgus bakery pavilion runs counter-served pīrāgi at €1 to €2 per piece, anchoring the city's cheapest Latvian breakfast or lunch.

Try: Pīrāgi (bacon-onion pastries)

Tip: Buy three pīrāgi and a kvass for under €5; eat at the market's outdoor benches.

Nēģu iela 7, Rīga, LV-1050

Liepkalni ★ 4.5

Bakery€centrsMon-Fri 07:30-19:00; Sat-Sun 08:00-18:00Walk-in onlyLatvian rye bread and pīrāgi

Liepkalni's Krišjāņa Valdemāra branch is the central Riga outpost of the country's most-cited rye specialist, baking dark Dienas loaf and pīrāgi daily.

Tip: Buy a whole Dienas rye and a tray of bacon-onion pīrāgi for a picnic in Vērmanes park or by the canal.

Worth the queue: Dienas rye loaf

Krišjāņa Valdemāra iela 62a, Rīga, LV-1013

LIDO Atpūtas Centrs ★ 4.0

Lithuanian€centraltirgus-maskavasMon-Thu 11:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00

LIDO Atpūtas Centrs anchors Riga's budget Latvian eating, with hot-counter plates of karbonāde, grey peas and pīrāgi for under €15 in a wooden-castle complex.

Try: Latvian buffet plates

Tip: Pay by weight at the till; a full meal with a beer lands around €12 on a weekday.

Krasta iela 76, Rīga, LV-1019

LIDO Vērmanītis ★ 3.9

Lithuanian€centrsDaily 10:00-22:00

LIDO Vērmanītis is the central Riga branch of the buffet chain, an easier sit than the Atpūtas Centrs flagship for a quick Latvian counter lunch.

Try: Latvian counter plates

Tip: Weekday lunch service is fastest; build a plate of karbonāde, grey peas and rye for around €10.

Elizabetes iela 65, Rīga, LV-1050

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