History

Horse butchery took root in Parma's Oltretorrente in the 19th century as cheap protein for the working quarter, and pesto di cavallo, hand-minced and simply dressed, became its signature. The dialect name caval pisst means pressed horse. Where much of Italy dropped the tradition, Parma kept dedicated butchers and put the dish on modern menus, from sandwich counters to bistrot reinterpretations.

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Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 20 minTotal 20 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 400g very fresh horse meat from a trusted butcher, or beef fillet as a substitute
  • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • Juice of half a lemon
  • Salt and black pepper
  • Bread, grissini or torta fritta to serve

Method

  1. Have the butcher mince the meat twice the same day you serve it, and keep it cold.
  2. Season with oil, lemon, salt and pepper, working lightly with a fork.
  3. Taste and adjust; the dressing should sharpen the meat, not mask it.
  4. Mound onto plates or press between bread as the Parma sandwich counters do.
  5. Serve immediately, cold, with a young Lambrusco.

Tip from the editors. This is a raw dish: buy from an equine butcher the morning you eat it, or make the beef version with the same respect for freshness.

Where to eat pesto di cavallo

Pesto di cavallo in Parma

Osteria Virgilio ★ 4.2

€€ TrattoriaOltretorrente

Osteria Virgilio is Oltretorrente Parma at its most honest: 36-month prosciutto, anolini in brodo and horse tartare in a small room with natural wines.

OrderThe cured-meat board with 36-month prosciutto, then anolini.

TipThe room seats very few, so call ahead. Gazzetta di Parma's February 2026 review called it a modern osteria of local tradition and a posto del cuore.

Borgo 20 ★ 4.3

€€€ Modern ItalianCentro Storico

Borgo 20 is Parma's contemporary bistrot near Piazza Duomo, pairing 30-month prosciutto with risotto alla parmigiana and a serious pastry counter.

OrderRisotto alla parmigiana with caramelised onion.

TipGambero Rosso lists it among Parma's essential tables and the kitchen runs unusually precise plating for a bistrot. Book for dinner.

Pepen ★ 4.5

€ Street foodCentro Storico

Pepen keeps Parma's best-value lunch on Borgo Sant'Ambrogio: the 6 euro Spaccaballe and the 2.50 euro Carciofa, from a counter that began as a dopoteatro.

TrySpaccaballe roast-pork sandwich

TipPrices sit under 7 euro across the counter; the Carciofa plus an espresso is the cheapest legendary lunch in Parma.

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