History
Pannfisch began as a frugal Hamburg fishmonger's dish in the 18th century, made from leftover roasted fish reheated in a hot pan with butter, potatoes and a mustard cream. By the 19th century it became a staple of the Imbiss and Hanseatic tavern menu, made fresh from cod or plaice with herbs and a sharp mustard sauce. Landhaus Scherrer in Altona is the canonical fine-dining Pannfisch; Old Commercial Room and Fischereihafen Restaurant serve the standard tavern version with Bratkartoffeln.
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Common allergens: Fish, Dairy, Mustard
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 600g cod or plaice fillet, skinless
- 100g flour, seasoned with salt and pepper
- 6 tablespoons butter
- 800g waxy potatoes, boiled and sliced
- 2 onions, sliced
- 200ml double cream
- 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
- 1 tablespoon wholegrain mustard
- 100ml white wine
- Chopped parsley and chives to finish
- Chopped gherkin to serve
Method
- Cut the fish into 4 portions. Pat dry; dust in seasoned flour, shake off excess.
- Fry the potato slices in 2 tablespoons butter on medium-high heat 8 minutes, turning, until golden. Set aside warm.
- Fry the onion in 1 tablespoon butter on low heat 6 minutes until golden; set aside.
- Fry the fish in 3 tablespoons butter on medium-high 3 minutes per side until golden and just cooked through.
- Make the sauce in the same pan: pour in white wine, scrape, reduce by half. Stir in cream and both mustards; simmer 3 minutes.
- Plate the potatoes, top with onions, then the fish. Spoon over the mustard sauce; finish with parsley, chives and gherkin.
Tip from the editors. The mustard sauce should be a thick coating; if it runs, simmer another 2 minutes.
Where to eat pannfisch
Pannfisch in Hamburg
Landhaus Scherrer 1 ★ ★ 4.5
Heinz Wehmann's Michelin-starred Landhaus Scherrer on the Elbchaussee in Hamburg-Altona cooks modern North German, with a bistro wing for lunches.
OrderThe Pannfisch in the bistro room, the seven-course tasting in the main dining room.
Book2 weeks ahead
TipLunch tasting is the better-value entry; book a window table for Elbe views.
Old Commercial Room ★ 4.4
Old Commercial Room opposite the Michel in Hamburg has cooked Hanseatic harbour food since 1795 and is the city's canonical Labskaus address.
OrderThe Original Hamburger Labskaus with fried egg, herring, beetroot and gherkin.
TipOpen daily; lunch tables more available than dinner. Cash welcome but cards accepted.
Fischereihafen Restaurant ★ 4.3
Fischereihafen Restaurant on Grosse Elbstrasse in Hamburg-Altona has cooked classical Hanseatic seafood since 1981, with daily catch from the harbour below.
OrderThe Hamburger Aalsuppe; the Pannfisch with mustard sauce.
TipWindow-row tables face the Elbe; ask at booking. Open daily 11:30-22:00.
More cities are in research. Want pannfisch covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.