History

Pannfisch began as a frugal Hamburg fishmonger's dish in the 18th century, made from leftover roasted fish reheated in a hot pan with butter, potatoes and a mustard cream. By the 19th century it became a staple of the Imbiss and Hanseatic tavern menu, made fresh from cod or plaice with herbs and a sharp mustard sauce. Landhaus Scherrer in Altona is the canonical fine-dining Pannfisch; Old Commercial Room and Fischereihafen Restaurant serve the standard tavern version with Bratkartoffeln.

Common allergens: Fish, Dairy, Mustard

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 600g cod or plaice fillet, skinless
  • 100g flour, seasoned with salt and pepper
  • 6 tablespoons butter
  • 800g waxy potatoes, boiled and sliced
  • 2 onions, sliced
  • 200ml double cream
  • 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
  • 1 tablespoon wholegrain mustard
  • 100ml white wine
  • Chopped parsley and chives to finish
  • Chopped gherkin to serve

Method

  1. Cut the fish into 4 portions. Pat dry; dust in seasoned flour, shake off excess.
  2. Fry the potato slices in 2 tablespoons butter on medium-high heat 8 minutes, turning, until golden. Set aside warm.
  3. Fry the onion in 1 tablespoon butter on low heat 6 minutes until golden; set aside.
  4. Fry the fish in 3 tablespoons butter on medium-high 3 minutes per side until golden and just cooked through.
  5. Make the sauce in the same pan: pour in white wine, scrape, reduce by half. Stir in cream and both mustards; simmer 3 minutes.
  6. Plate the potatoes, top with onions, then the fish. Spoon over the mustard sauce; finish with parsley, chives and gherkin.

Tip from the editors. The mustard sauce should be a thick coating; if it runs, simmer another 2 minutes.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat pannfisch

Pannfisch in Hamburg

Landhaus Scherrer 1 ★ ★ 4.5

Modern North GermanChef Heinz Wehmann€145altonaTue to Sat 12:00 to 14:30, 18:30 to 22:30Book 2 weeks ahead

Heinz Wehmann's Michelin-starred Landhaus Scherrer on the Elbchaussee in Hamburg-Altona cooks modern North German, with a bistro wing for lunches.

Order: The Pannfisch in the bistro room, the seven-course tasting in the main dining room.

Tip: Lunch tasting is the better-value entry; book a window table for Elbe views.

Old Commercial Room ★ 4.4

Hanseatic€€neustadt

Old Commercial Room opposite the Michel in Hamburg has cooked Hanseatic harbour food since 1795 and is the city's canonical Labskaus address.

Order: The Original Hamburger Labskaus with fried egg, herring, beetroot and gherkin.

Tip: Open daily; lunch tables more available than dinner. Cash welcome but cards accepted.

Fischereihafen Restaurant ★ 4.3

Hanseatic seafood€€€altona

Fischereihafen Restaurant on Grosse Elbstrasse in Hamburg-Altona has cooked classical Hanseatic seafood since 1981, with daily catch from the harbour below.

Order: The Hamburger Aalsuppe; the Pannfisch with mustard sauce.

Tip: Window-row tables face the Elbe; ask at booking. Open daily 11:30 to 22:00.

More cities are in research. Want pannfisch covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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