Paella valenciana
Photo: Jebulon · CC0

History

Paella valenciana emerged in the 18th-century rice paddies of La Albufera south of Valencia, when farmers and shepherds cooked rabbit, chicken, ferraura beans and bomba rice over orange-wood embers for the noon-day field meal. The canonical recipe was codified by the early 19th century: rabbit, chicken, ferraura, garrofo butter bean, sometimes snails, saffron, sweet paprika, tomato, bomba rice. No chorizo. No seafood. The 2021 Paella Valenciana DOP legally defined the dish with ten obligatory ingredients. Casa Carmela on the Malvarrosa beachfront and Casa Roberto in the Eixample cook the canonical version; El Palmar in La Albufera grills paellas at source.

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Common allergens: None typical

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 1 hr 15 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 400g bomba rice
  • 1 small rabbit, jointed, around 500g
  • 1 small chicken, jointed, around 800g
  • 200g ferraura (flat green beans), trimmed
  • 100g garrofo (large butter beans), dried and soaked overnight
  • 100ml extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 ripe tomatoes, grated
  • 1 teaspoon sweet paprika (pimentonon)
  • Generous pinch of saffron threads
  • 1.2 litres hot water or light stock
  • Sea salt to taste
  • 1 sprig of fresh rosemary

Method

  1. Heat the olive oil in a 40 cm paella pan over high heat. Season the rabbit and chicken pieces with salt.
  2. Brown the rabbit and chicken pieces all over for 8 to 10 minutes; remove to a plate.
  3. Add the ferraura green beans and garrofo butter beans, fry for 5 minutes until they take on colour.
  4. Push everything to the edge of the pan, add the grated tomato to the centre and reduce for 3 minutes. Stir in the paprika off the heat for 10 seconds (it burns easily).
  5. Return the rabbit and chicken to the pan. Add the hot water and the saffron threads. Bring to a hard boil and season with salt.
  6. Boil hard for 10 minutes, then add the rice in a cross shape across the pan. Stir once to distribute and never again.
  7. Cook over medium-high heat for 10 minutes, then lower the heat for 8 more minutes. Add the rosemary sprig at the top.
  8. When the rice is dry and the bottom is forming a socarrat crust, rest off the heat for 5 minutes covered with a clean towel.

Tip from the editors. Never stir the rice after it goes in. The socarrat (the crisp bottom layer) is the prize; listen for the rice to crackle in the last 3 minutes.

Where to eat paella valenciana

Paella valenciana in Valencia

Casa Carmela ★ 4.6

€€€ Valencian RiceLa Malvarrosa

Casa Carmela on the Malvarrosa beachfront in Valencia has cooked wood-fired paellas to order since 1922, with a 20-strong rice repertoire and a lunch-only.

OrderThe paella valenciana cooked over orange-wood embers, ordered when you book.

TipBook three weeks ahead for weekend lunch. Lunch only Tue to Sat 13:00-16:00; no dinner.

Casa Roberto ★ 4.5

€€ Valencian RiceLeixample

Casa Roberto on Carrer del Mestre Gozalbo in Valencia's Eixample has cooked Roberto Aparicio's traditional paellas since 1986, with a long chef's record.

OrderThe paella valenciana ordered ahead, with the croquetas and salmorejo to start.

TipClosed Monday all day and Sunday evenings. Reserve 48 hours ahead for paella; the dining room is small.

La Pepica ★ 4.3

€€€ Valencian RiceLa Malvarrosa

La Pepica on Passeig de Neptu in Valencia's Malvarrosa beach has served paella since 1898; Hemingway, Queen Sofia and Orson Welles all ate the rice here.

OrderThe paella valenciana with rabbit, chicken and ferraura beans at lunch.

TipBook the beachfront terrace one week ahead. Closed Sunday evenings. Hemingway's signed photograph hangs in the inner dining room.

La Riua ★ 4.4

€€ Valencian RiceCiutat Vella

La Riua on Carrer del Mar in Valencia's old town has run a family-tavern rice kitchen since 1978, now in the third generation, with a dozen paellas.

OrderThe paella valenciana or the arroz a banda; the house Utiel-Requena tinto is honest.

TipClosed Sunday and Monday. The dining room fills with locals by 14:00; reserve ahead.

El Encuentro ★ 4.0

€€ Valencian

El Encuentro in Valencia: Neighbourhood arroceria in central Valencia that locals book weekly, the lunchtime menu del dia is the best-kept secret.

OrderThe paella valenciana for two, ordered ahead.

Why locals goNeighbourhood arroceria in central Valencia that locals book weekly, the lunchtime menu del dia is the best-kept secret.

TipClosed Sunday evening and Monday. The lunchtime paella plate is the secret.

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