Paella valenciana is Valencia's defining rice dish: bomba rice cooked over orange wood in a flat pan with rabbit, chicken, ferraura green beans, garrofo butter beans, saffron and tomato.
Where to eat it: 5 restaurants across 1 city.
Paella valenciana emerged in the 18th-century rice paddies of La Albufera south of Valencia, when farmers and shepherds cooked rabbit, chicken, ferraura beans and bomba rice over orange-wood embers for the noon-day field meal. The canonical recipe was codified by the early 19th century: rabbit, chicken, ferraura, garrofo butter bean, sometimes snails, saffron, sweet paprika, tomato, bomba rice. No chorizo. No seafood. The 2021 Paella Valenciana DOP legally defined the dish with ten obligatory ingredients. Casa Carmela on the Malvarrosa beachfront and Casa Roberto in the Eixample cook the canonical version; El Palmar in La Albufera grills paellas at source.
Common allergens: None typical
Tip from the editors. Never stir the rice after it goes in. The socarrat (the crisp bottom layer) is the prize; listen for the rice to crackle in the last 3 minutes.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Casa Carmela on the Malvarrosa beachfront in Valencia has cooked wood-fired paellas to order since 1922, with a 20-strong rice repertoire and a lunch-only beachfront kitchen.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz a banda, Esgarraet
Order: The paella valenciana cooked over orange-wood embers, ordered when you book.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead for weekend lunch. Lunch only Tue to Sat 13:00 to 16:00; no dinner.
Casa Roberto on Carrer del Mestre Gozalbo in Valencia's Eixample has cooked Roberto Aparicio's traditional paellas since 1986, with a long chef's record in Valencian rice.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz al horno, Croquetas
Order: The paella valenciana ordered ahead, with the croquetas and salmorejo to start.
Tip: Closed Monday all day and Sunday evenings. Reserve 48 hours ahead for paella; the dining room is small.
La Pepica on Passeig de Neptu in Valencia's Malvarrosa beach has served paella since 1898; Hemingway, Queen Sofia and Orson Welles all ate the rice here.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz a banda, Arroz del senyoret
Order: The paella valenciana with rabbit, chicken and ferraura beans at lunch, with a half-bottle of Utiel-Requena bobal.
Tip: Book the beachfront terrace one week ahead. Closed Sunday evenings. Hemingway's signed photograph hangs in the inner dining room.
La Riua on Carrer del Mar in Valencia's old town has run a family-tavern rice kitchen since 1978, now in the third generation, with a dozen paellas on the carte.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz a banda, Fideua
Order: The paella valenciana or the arroz a banda; the house Utiel-Requena tinto is honest.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The dining room fills with locals by 14:00; reserve ahead.
Order: The paella valenciana for two, ordered ahead.
Why locals love it: Neighbourhood arroceria in central Valencia that locals book weekly, the lunchtime menu del dia is the best-kept secret.
Tip: Closed Sunday evening and Monday. The lunchtime paella plate is the secret.
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