History

Fruit dumplings are the canonical Bohemian summer dessert, made with whatever orchard fruit is in season. The dough recipe varies: potato in the south, quark or curd cheese in Moravia. The plum version (svestkove knedliky) hits Prague pivnice menus from August through October, when Bohemian plums ripen. U Modre Kachnicky and the Lokal kitchens keep them on a seasonal rotation. Czech families eat them as a main course, not a dessert, with a heavy dusting of grated tvaroh (curd cheese), browned butter and icing sugar.

Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy, Eggs

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 40 minTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • For the potato dough: 500g floury potatoes, peeled and quartered
  • 1 large egg
  • 200g plain flour (plus more if needed)
  • 50g semolina (krupice)
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 12 small ripe but firm plums (Czech svestky), or 12 fresh apricots (halved and pitted; for plums leave whole and pit through the side)
  • 12 sugar cubes (to drop into the cavity of each fruit)
  • To serve: 100g unsalted butter (browned over low heat until nutty)
  • 100g fresh tvaroh or fine-grated curd cheese (substitute with crumbled ricotta or coarse-grated paneer)
  • 50g icing sugar
  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon

Method

  1. Boil the potatoes in salted water 18 to 20 minutes until very tender; drain and steam-dry in the dry pan for 60 seconds. Press through a potato ricer onto a clean bench while still warm.
  2. Let the riced potato cool to lukewarm, then heap it into a mound, make a well, add the egg, flour, semolina and salt. Work into a soft dough, kneading just enough to bring together; do not over-knead or it turns gluey.
  3. Place a sugar cube inside each pitted plum (close the fruit around it).
  4. Divide the dough into 12 portions, flatten each into a 10cm disc on a floured bench, lay a stuffed plum in the centre, and gather the dough up around the fruit, pinching the seam closed completely. Roll between cupped palms into a smooth ball.
  5. Bring a wide pot of lightly salted water to a steady simmer (not a rolling boil; that bursts the seams). Drop in the dumplings, cook for 8 to 10 minutes; they will float when ready.
  6. Lift out with a slotted spoon, drain briefly, and prick each with a wooden skewer twice to release steam.
  7. Plate three dumplings per portion. Drizzle generously with browned butter, top with a heavy mound of grated tvaroh, then a snowfall of icing sugar mixed with cinnamon. Serve immediately while still warm.

Tip from the editors. Push the potato through a ricer while still hot for the right structure; mashing with a masher works the gluten in the flour too hard later. Underripe fruit holds its shape better than soft ripe fruit, and tarter fruit balances the sweet butter-and-sugar dressing.

Where to eat ovocne knedliky

Ovocne knedliky in Prague

U Modre Kachnicky ★ 4.2

Czech Traditional€€mala-stranaDaily 12:00-23:00

U Modre Kachnicky in Mala Strana cooks the old Czech repertoire, roast duck and venison, in two Baroque-era dining rooms a five-minute walk from Charles.

Signature: Roast duck, Venison goulash

Order: The duck with bread dumplings and red cabbage.

Lokal Dlouhaaa ★ 4.4

Czech€€stare-mestoMon-Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-22:00Until 00:00 Mon-Wed, 01:00 Thu-Sat, 22:00 Sun

Lokal Dlouhaaa stays open to 01:00 weekend nights, pouring tank Pilsner and serving classic Czech pub food until last orders. Located in Stare Mesto.

Try: Tank Pilsner, Czech pub menu

Tip: Last food order is 30 minutes before close; the smazeny syr is the late dish.

Lokal Hamburk ★ 4.3

Cocktail barCzech beer hall€€€karlinDaily 11:00-23:00

Lokal Hamburk in Karlin is the river-harbour-themed Ambiente Lokal, the most neighbourhood-feeling of the chain. Order the tank pilsner urquell.

Signature drink: Tank Pilsner Urquell

Food: Czech pub menu

Tip: The terrace seats in summer go fast; book ahead Friday onward.

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