Modern Latin American$$highland
Mister Oso in Denver is Blake Edmunds's playful Latin American room in RiNo, with masa tacos, Caribbean cocktails and a wood-grill program built around Colorado proteins.
Signature: Octopus al pastor, Chicharron tacos, Steak frites tacos
Order: The octopus al pastor on a fresh blue-corn tortilla; the masa is milled in-house and the octopus is grilled in slick chile oil.
Tip: The patio runs three rounds of seating on summer nights; the bar walks in if you arrive by 5:30 pm. The taro chips are bottomless if you ask.
Mexican$$south-broadway
Adelitas Cocina y Cantina in Denver is Adelita Diaz's South Broadway regional-Mexican dining room since 2011, with a mezcal-and-tequila bar and a Pueblan-leaning menu.
Signature: Chiles en nogada, Mezcal flights, Carnitas tacos
Order: The chiles en nogada in fall and the cochinita pibil; mezcal flight pours from rare Oaxacan agaves.
Tip: Walk-in at the bar; reservations for the dining room go on Resy. The cantina pours late on weekends.
Modern Mexican$$$downtown
Tamayo in Denver is Richard Sandoval's modern Mexican dining room on Larimer Square since 2001, a rooftop patio anchor for upscale tacos, ceviche and tequila flights.
Signature: Tableside guacamole, Cochinita pibil, Mole negro
Order: The tableside guacamole and the cochinita pibil with Yucatan-style achiote; flight of mezcal to pair.
Tip: The rooftop patio runs March through October with mountain views; book it three weeks ahead. The bar is open for walk-ins.
Modern American (farm-to-table)$$$lodo
Mercantile Dining and Provision in Denver is Alex Seidel's farm-to-table dining room and provisions counter in Union Station, sourced from his Fruition Farms in Larkspur.
Signature: Roasted Colorado trout, Pork loin with sweetbreads, Charcuterie board
Order: The Colorado trout from the live-fire hearth and the house-made charcuterie board, cured from Seidel's farm pork.
Tip: The market counter sells the kitchen's bread, charcuterie and produce; the morning espresso bar is the city's best Union Station coffee.