Okra soup
Photo: Bukky658 · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

Okra arrived in Charleston with West African captives through the trans-Atlantic slave trade and grew into a Lowcountry pantry staple. Okra soup as cooked at Bertha's Kitchen and across Black-owned soul food kitchens descends directly from Gullah-Geechee cookery: stewed tomatoes, okra to thicken, oxtail or beef shin to fortify. The dish is served over rice or eaten as a one-pot meal. Vertamae Smart-Grosvenor's 1970 book Vibration Cooking documented the Gullah-Geechee tradition; her work informs how chefs like BJ Dennis present the dish today.

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Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 25 minTotal 3 hrDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 1.2kg oxtail or beef shin, bone-in
  • 2 tbsp neutral oil
  • 2 large yellow onions, diced
  • 4 garlic cloves, minced
  • 800g tinned plum tomatoes, crushed by hand
  • 2 litres beef stock
  • 1 tsp smoked paprika
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1kg fresh okra, trimmed and sliced 1cm thick
  • Steamed rice to serve, hot pepper vinegar

Method

  1. Season the oxtail generously with salt and pepper. Brown in oil in a heavy pot over medium-high heat, in batches.
  2. Lift the meat, add the onions and cook 6 minutes until soft. Add garlic; cook 1 minute.
  3. Return the oxtail. Add tomatoes, stock, paprika and bay leaf.
  4. Bring to a simmer. Cook, partially covered, 2 hours 30 minutes until meat falls off the bone.
  5. Lift out the oxtail; pull the meat, discard bones.
  6. Add the sliced okra to the pot; simmer 20 minutes until tender and slightly thickened.
  7. Return the meat. Taste and adjust salt. Serve over rice with hot pepper vinegar.

Tip from the editors. Don't trim the okra ahead; cut it just before adding to keep the slime contained. Some slime is the point; it thickens the soup the way a roux would in Cajun cookery.

Where to eat okra soup

Okra soup in Charleston

Bertha's Kitchen ★ 4.7

$$ Fried chickenNorth Charleston

Bertha's Kitchen on Meeting Street Road in North Charleston runs Albertha Grant's soul food cafeteria from 1979. Fried chicken, okra soup, red rice.

OrderFried chicken, okra soup, red rice, lima beans with smoked turkey neck

Why locals goA North Charleston cafeteria steam table that has run since 1979 and won James Beard's America's Classics in 2017. Tourist guides barely list it.

TipLunch only Mon-Sat, cash and card. Arrive before 13:00 weekdays or the fried chicken is gone.

Directions

Hannibal's Kitchen ★ 4.5

$ Soul foodEastside

Hannibal's Kitchen has fed the Eastside of Charleston soul food since 1985. At 16 Blake St. Reservations advised. A neighbourhood favourite.

TryCrab rice, smothered pork chop, fried whiting, lima beans

TipCounter order, dining-room seat. Lunch beats dinner; the line peaks 12:30-13:30 weekdays.

Directions

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