Buckwheat noodles in hot dashi topped with a slow-simmered herring fillet, a Kyoto specialty born when sea fish was salted and dried for the inland capital.
Where to eat it: 1 restaurant across 1 city.
Nishin soba was created at Matsuba on Shijo Street in Kyoto in 1882, when chef Tokichi Matsuno paired buckwheat noodles with simmered herring brought salted up the Saba Kaido. Pre-railway Kyoto had limited fresh fish access, so dried Hokkaido herring (mi-bo-shi) was soaked, then slowly braised with mirin, sake and sugar over hours until the bones softened. The dish became the city's reference dashi bowl, and remains the canonical Kyoto soba order on the menu of every traditional soba house.
Common allergens: Fish, Wheat, Soy
Tip from the editors. Braising the herring fillet is the whole dish; do it the day before and chill overnight. The fat sets and the bones become edible.
Kawamichiya's adjacent Kosho-an counter in Kyoto, a renovated 110-year machiya. Cleaner soba menu than the Sohonke parent, faster-paced lunch trade.
Signature: Tempura soba, Kamonanban duck soba
Order: Kamonanban duck soba with smoked-yuzu broth
Tip: Open lunch 11:00-15:00 and dinner 17:00-21:00. No reservations.
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