History

Nasi campur means mixed rice, a plate with small portions of several dishes, and the Balinese version, nasi campur Bali or simply nasi Bali, is probably the best known abroad. Its taste comes from basa genep, and a pork warung may add lawar and babi guling. It is not the rijsttafel, the colonial banquet of many dishes that Art Cafe Bumbu Bali now reworks as a Balinese spread for two. Nasi Bali Men Weti has fed Sanur since the 1970s, and Made's Warung began as a Kuta roadside stall in 1969.

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Common allergens: Egg, Fish, Peanuts, Shellfish, Soy

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 1 hrTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 400g jasmine rice
  • 500g chicken breast fillet, 1 lime, 2 lemongrass stalks and 2 kaffir lime leaves, for the ayam sisit
  • 8 bird's-eye chillies, 8 large red chillies, 4 garlic cloves, 5 shallots, 3cm kencur and 1/2 tsp toasted shrimp paste, ground, for the ayam sisit
  • 100g bean sprouts, 4 long beans and 1 bunch spinach, for the urap
  • 100g grated young coconut, with 2 red chillies, 3cm kencur, 2 lime leaves, 2 garlic cloves, 1 tbsp palm sugar, 1 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp shrimp paste, ground, for the urap
  • Sambal matah made from 5 shallots, 1 lemongrass stalk, 5 bird's-eye chillies, 3 lime leaves and 2 tbsp hot coconut oil
  • Fried tofu or tempeh, and 4 fried eggs, to finish

Method

  1. Steam the rice.
  2. Rub the chicken with lime juice, rest it for 10 minutes, then boil for 15 minutes. Drain, fry briefly in oil until the surface is dry, cool and shred.
  3. Fry the ground chilli paste in oil with the lemongrass and lime leaves until fragrant, add the shredded chicken with a pinch of sugar and salt, and cook until the paste clings. This is ayam sisit.
  4. Blanch the bean sprouts, long beans and spinach. Mix the urap paste with the grated coconut and steam for 10 minutes, then toss with the vegetables.
  5. Slice the sambal matah ingredients finely, season with salt and pour over a little hot coconut oil.
  6. Plate the rice with the ayam sisit, urap, sambal matah, tofu or tempeh and a fried egg, and add a skewer of sate lilit if you have made some.

Tip from the editors. Cook two or three parts well and keep the rest simple, as buffet warungs do from their glass cabinets; halve the chillies if you want less heat.

Where to eat nasi campur bali

Nasi campur Bali in Bali

Warung Wardani ★ 4.0

$ BalineseDenpasar

Warung Wardani serves nasi campur Bali with sate lilit and shredded chicken from its Jalan Yudistira warung in Denpasar, Bali, open until 16:00.

TryNasi campur Bali with sate lilit, shredded chicken and pindang egg

TipChoose chicken or beef nasi campur. The warung has two branches in Bali, this one in Denpasar and another near the Kuta airport area.

Nasi Bali Men Weti ★ 4.2

$ BalineseSanur

Nasi Bali Men Weti serves chicken nasi campur from a plain warung beside Segara Ayu beach in Sanur, Bali, open since the 1970s and busy from early morning.

TryNasi campur ayam with betutu chicken, fried chicken skin and sate lilit

TipA queue forms from 07:00, an hour before the 08:00 opening. Plates start from about IDR 25,000 and the warung closes at 13:00.

Made's Warung (Seminyak) ★ 3.9

$$ IndonesianSeminyak

Made's Warung began in 1969 as a roadside stall in Kuta. Its Seminyak branch on Jalan Raya Seminyak, Bali, serves nasi campur and international dishes.

OrderOrder the nasi campur, about IDR 43,000 for the plain plate, and add sate lilit ikan.

TipCome before dark for an easier table and parking. Traditional Balinese dance or live music is sometimes staged in the evening.

Nasi Banjar Mbok Mang ★ 4.0

$ BalineseNusa Dua

Why locals goA pork nasi campur warung in Benoa near the ITDC area, serving lawar, urutan sausage and pork rib broth from 08:00 to 14:00, with plates from about IDR 25,000.

TipThe warung runs from 08:00 to 14:00, so go for breakfast or an early lunch; a full plate starts from about IDR 25,000.

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