History

Mulgi puder takes its name from the Mulgimaa region in southern Estonia, where pearl barley grew well on the heavy soils. Peasant farmers cooked the barley into a porridge then mashed it with potato to stretch the dish through winter. The barley was usually pearled and slow-cooked, then loosened with cream or milk and topped with bacon and onion. Tallinn's Old Town traditional rooms like Rataskaevu 16 still keep it on the menu year-round, alongside lingonberry jam.

Common allergens: Gluten, Milk

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 15 minTotal 1 hrDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 200g pearl barley
  • 800g floury potatoes, peeled and cubed
  • 200ml whole milk
  • 100g butter
  • 200g smoked bacon lardons
  • 2 onions, finely chopped
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • Black pepper
  • Lingonberry jam to serve

Method

  1. Rinse the pearl barley and simmer in 700ml salted water until tender, about 40 minutes.
  2. Boil the potatoes in salted water until soft, about 20 minutes, then drain.
  3. Mash the potatoes with the cooked barley and warm milk until smooth and porridgey.
  4. Fry the bacon and onions in a pan until golden brown.
  5. Pile the mash into bowls, top with bacon-onion mixture and serve with lingonberry jam.

Tip from the editors. Mash by hand or with a wooden spoon; a food processor turns the puder gluey.

Where to eat mulgi puder

Mulgi Puder in Tallinn

Rataskaevu 16 ★ 4.8

Estonian Comfort Food€€vanalinnMon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-00:00; Sun 12:00-23:00

Rataskaevu 16 is the Old Town's mid-priced Estonian comfort-food room, with braised elk, beef tenderloin and chef's choice white fish on a dietary menu.

Signature: Braised elk roast, Beef tenderloin

Order: Braised elk roast with potato and beetroot gratin (€28.60); add the Estonian cheese platter.

Tip: Book a week ahead in summer. Sister room Väike Rataskaevu at Niguliste 6 takes the overflow with a smaller menu.

Olde Hansa ★ 4.4

Estonian€€Daily 11:00-00:00; kitchen 11:00-23:00Until Daily 00:00

Olde Hansa on Vana turg runs the medieval Hanseatic feast in candlelight until midnight every night, with live hurdy-gurdy and bagpipe music Wed to Sat.

Try: Medieval Hanseatic feast with live music

III Draakon ★ 4.3

EstonianDaily 11:00-23:00

III Draakon under the Town Hall serves elk soup, pirukad pastries and house beer for a few euros each in a medieval-themed candle-lit cellar.

Try: Elk soup and savoury pirukad

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