Msemen
Photo: Madapineapple · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

Msemen is the Maghreb's morning griddle bread, made across Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia. The folding technique creates the layered laminated structure that defines the bread, eaten plain with butter and honey, or stuffed with onions and tomatoes (msemen mahchi). Marrakech's Bab Doukkala counters run msemen daily from dawn, when bakers fold and griddle the squares on cast-iron skillets street-side.

Common allergens: Gluten

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4 (makes 8)Hands-on 45 minTotal 2 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 400 g plain flour
  • 100 g fine semolina, plus extra for folding
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 tsp sugar
  • 1 tsp instant yeast
  • About 300 ml warm water
  • 100 g unsalted butter, melted
  • 100 ml vegetable oil, for working
  • Honey and amlou (argan-almond paste) for serving

Method

  1. Mix flour, semolina, salt, sugar and yeast. Add water gradually, kneading 10 minutes to a soft, slightly sticky dough.
  2. Divide into 8 balls. Rest covered 30 minutes.
  3. Oil a work surface. Roll one ball into a very thin rectangle (almost see-through). Brush with melted butter; sprinkle with semolina.
  4. Fold one third toward the centre, the opposite third over the top. Then fold left and right thirds in; you have a square. Rest 5 minutes; repeat with all balls.
  5. Heat a cast-iron skillet over medium-high. Roll each square out to about 15 cm. Cook 2 minutes per side until golden and crisp at the edges. Serve hot, torn, with honey or amlou.

Tip from the editors. The very-thin first roll is what creates the layers; don't rush it. Use a generously oiled surface, not flour, to avoid drying the dough.

Where to eat msemen

Msemen in Marrakech

Msemen Counters Bab Doukkala ★ 4.2

$ Street foodBab DoukkalaCash only

Bab Doukkala in Marrakech runs the breakfast counter row at dawn: msemen layered flatbread, baghrir thousand-hole pancakes, 5 to 10 DH each with honey.

TryMsemen and baghrir, layered semolina pancakes

TipCloses by midday. Pair msemen with amlou (argan-almond spread) at the counter; eat on the curb with mint tea.

Patisserie des Princes ★ 4.2

$ BakeryMedina

Patisserie des Princes on Rue Bab Agnaou in Marrakech's medina runs the budget tea-room: pastries 14 to 30 MAD, air-conditioned back room, daily from 06:00.

TryMoroccan pastry and mint tea

TipPastries 14 to 18 DH single; box of mixed for under 50 DH. The back tea room is a heat refuge for the price of a coffee.

Cafe Clock ★ 4.3

$$ 60 to 180 MADCaféAll-day Moroccan-American with storytellingKasbah

Cafe Clock in Marrakech's Kasbah runs all-day brunch under storytelling-class courtyard ceilings: camel burger signature, vegetarian falafel-pita, juices.

OrderCamel burger with frites; vegetarians get the falafel-pita.

TipWednesday jam sessions; Saturday Berber music. The camel burger is the famed pick; falafel is the vegetarian default.

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