History

Zeeland mussels arrive at Ghent's Groentenmarkt fishmongers from late July when the first harvest comes in from the Zealand beds in the Netherlands. Mosselen met friet is the Belgian national brasserie dish; in Ghent it is most closely associated with the Pakhuis brasserie at the Schuurkenstraat, which serves it as its headline seasonal dish. The combination of steamed mussels and double-fried frites dates to mid-20th century Belgian brasserie culture, when Zeeland mussels became reliably available to inland Flemish cities by rail.

Common allergens: Shellfish, Dairy, Gluten

Make it at home

Yield Serves 2Hands-on 20 minTotal 25 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 2kg live Zeeland mussels, scrubbed and debearded
  • 2 shallots, finely sliced
  • 3 garlic cloves, sliced
  • 150ml dry white wine
  • 50g cold butter
  • Large handful flat-leaf parsley, chopped
  • Frites to serve (double-fried at 180C)
  • Good Belgian mayonnaise

Method

  1. Discard any mussels with cracked shells or that do not close when tapped.
  2. In a large pot with a lid, soften shallots and garlic in half the butter over medium heat for 3 minutes.
  3. Turn heat to high. Add white wine; bring to a boil.
  4. Tip in mussels, cover tightly and cook over high heat for 3-4 minutes, shaking the pot twice.
  5. The mussels are done when they are all open. Discard any that remain shut.
  6. Stir in remaining butter and parsley. Serve in the pot at the table with frites and mayonnaise.

Tip from the editors. The cooking time is brief; overcooking toughens the mussel texture from silky to rubbery. Three minutes covered on high heat is enough.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat mosselen met friet (mussels with frites)

Mosselen met Friet (Mussels with Frites) in Ghent

Pakhuis ★ 4.2

Belgian brasserie€€€binnenstad

Pakhuis fills a converted 19th-century warehouse behind a central alley. The cavernous glass-roofed interior keeps a menu of daily-fresh oysters, moules.

Order: Moules frites: the mussels arrive in a deep cast-iron pot and the frites alongside are fried to order.

Tip: Book ahead for weekend dinner; the warehouse vibe is worth it for a big-group celebration.

't Klokhuys ★ 4.3

Traditional Flemish€€patershol

't Klokhuys runs out of a narrow Patershol house and is one of the most cited places in the city for Gentse waterzooi. The room seats fewer than 30 people.

Order: Gentse waterzooi with chicken: the stock is rich, the vegetables are cooked right through.

Tip: Book at least two days ahead; the room is tiny and fills weeks ahead in summer.

More cities are in research. Want mosselen met friet (mussels with frites) covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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