History

Mole coloradito was historically a celebration mole for weddings and baptisms, lighter than negro and quicker to make. The Casa Oaxaca and Las Quince Letras versions stay closest to the convent-kitchen original, with ancho, guajillo and a touch of chilhuacle red giving it a brick-red colour. Many Oaxacan home cooks make it weekly from a Mercado de Abastos mole-paste base, served over enmoladas with shredded chicken and queso fresco for Sunday lunch.

Common allergens: Nuts, Sesame, Wheat (tortilla)

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 1 hrTotal 2 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 8 ancho chiles, seeded
  • 4 guajillo chiles, seeded
  • 2 chipotle chiles
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 1 small onion, charred
  • 2 medium tomatoes
  • 40g sesame seeds, toasted
  • 40g almonds, toasted
  • 1 small ripe plantain
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 2 cloves
  • 30g Oaxacan chocolate
  • 1L chicken stock
  • Salt and a pinch of sugar
  • 1kg chicken, cooked and shredded
  • Tortillas to serve

Method

  1. Toast the chiles on a comal and soak in hot water 20 minutes.
  2. Char the onion, garlic and tomatoes on the comal.
  3. Toast the sesame and almonds; reserve.
  4. Blend the chiles, charred vegetables, seeds, almonds, plantain and spices into a thick paste.
  5. Fry the paste in 50ml lard 15 minutes until it darkens.
  6. Add stock; simmer 45 minutes.
  7. Add chocolate; adjust salt and sugar; simmer 15 minutes.
  8. Roll the shredded chicken in tortillas, dip in the sauce and plate as enmoladas.

Tip from the editors. Don't skip the plantain: it carries the natural sweetness that distinguishes coloradito from negro.

Where to eat mole coloradito

Mole coloradito in Oaxaca

Los Pacos ★ 4.2

MexicanChef Pablo Manzano$$$$$600 to $900centro-historicoBook 1 week ahead

Los Pacos on Abasolo with a rooftop terrace runs seven moles on one tasting board for the canonical mole-flight of the city across two sittings daily.

Tip: Skip mains and order the moles-de-Oaxaca tasting plate; bring an appetite and a friend to share the seven.

Ancestral Cocina Tradicional ★ 4.5

Mexican$$xochimilco

Ancestral in Xochimilco is the thatched-roof grove on Lopez Alavez, well away from Centro tourist flow, with the seven-moles tasting platter as the headline.

Why locals love it: In Barrio de Xochimilco, the weaving quarter most tourists never reach; thatched-roof grove.

Tip: Take a taxi (the Lopez Alavez block is a steep climb); book the moles tasting for two.

La Olla ★ 4.3

BrunchTraditional Oaxacan breakfast$$$150-$280 MXNcentro-historicoMon-Sat 09:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-18:00Walk-in or 2 days

La Olla on Reforma serves the long Oaxacan breakfast (huevos divorciados, chilaquiles verdes, mole-and-egg plates) in the converted-house dining rooms.

Order: Huevos divorciados with mole verde and mole amarillo

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