History

Modra kapusta (literally 'blue cabbage', the Silesian name for red cabbage) inherits the German-Silesian tradition of long-stewed cabbage with sour apples and warming spice. The Silesian version leans more sweet-sour than the Bohemian version, and includes a final shot of vinegar to brighten the close.

Make it at home

Yield Serves 6Hands-on 20 minTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 1 medium red cabbage (1kg), shredded fine
  • 2 sour apples, peeled and grated
  • 1 large yellow onion, finely diced
  • 100g smoked bacon, diced
  • 2 tablespoons goose fat or butter
  • 1 teaspoon caraway seeds
  • 2 tablespoons cider vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon honey or brown sugar
  • Salt and black pepper

Method

  1. Render the bacon in goose fat over medium heat until crisp, about 5 minutes.
  2. Add the onion and caraway. Cook until the onion softens, about 4 minutes.
  3. Add the shredded cabbage and grated apple. Stir to coat in the fat.
  4. Add 100ml of water, cover, and stew on low heat for 45 minutes. Stir every 15 minutes.
  5. Stir in vinegar and honey. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  6. Continue to stew uncovered for 15 minutes until most liquid evaporates.
  7. Serve warm. Improves on day two.

Tip from the editors. Cook the cabbage day-ahead and reheat. The flavours integrate noticeably overnight.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat modra kapusta

Modra kapusta in Wrocław

Restauracja Wrocławska ★ 4.2

Silesian€€stare-miasto

Restauracja Wrocławska's casual side: Silesian classics, pre-war Breslau menu drawn from Marek Krajewski novels, and the city's most reliable plate of rolada śląska.

Signature: Rolada śląska, Śląskie niebo, Kluski wrocławskie

Order: Rolada śląska with potato dumplings (kluski śląskie) and red cabbage, the canonical Silesian plate.

Tip: The hekele (smoked-herring spread) starter is the deep-Silesian move many visitors miss.

Karczma Lwowska ★ 4.0

Eastern Polish€€stare-miasto

Karczma Lwowska on Wrocław's Rynek cooks Eastern Borderlands food, the family roots a lot of post-1945 Wrocław inherited. Flaming grilled meat platters, pierogi, bigos.

Signature: Flaming meat platters, Pierogi, Bigos

Order: The flaming meat platter for two with grilled vegetables and three sauces.

Tip: Ask for the szaszłyk skewers; they're cheaper than the platter and the kitchen treats them with the same care.

Pod Fredrą ★ 3.8

Polish bistro€€stare-miasto

Pod Fredrą sits next to Wrocław's Town Hall on the Rynek and serves Polish bistro classics. A reliable, fair-priced lunch room locals walk to between meetings.

Signature: Schabowy, Pierogi, Żurek

Order: Żurek in a bread bowl, schabowy with potatoes and a glass of buttermilk.

Tip: The 22 zł soup-and-pierogi weekday lunch is one of the better Rynek deals.

More cities are in research. Want modra kapusta covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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