History

The city's tacos draw on two distinct Mexican waves: post-1910 Revolution arrivals from central Mexico, who set up the early taquerias, and a 1970s and 1980s influx from Jalisco and Michoacan that brought al pastor and carnitas to the same blocks. La Taqueria on Mission, opened by Miguel Jara in 1973, treats the meat with restraint (no rice, no beans, doubled corn tortillas with a touch of cheese and avocado), and the room won a James Beard America's Classic in 2017. El Farolito on 24th, opened in 1980, runs the late-night standard. The taco here is not a tasting room project; it is a 24-hour ledger of immigration.

Common allergens: Dairy (if cheese added)

Make it at home

Yield Serves 2 (6 tacos)Hands-on 25 minTotal 3 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g pork shoulder, cut into 4cm cubes (for carnitas)
  • 1 orange, halved
  • 2 garlic cloves, smashed
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 tsp Mexican oregano
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 2 tbsp lard (or neutral oil)
  • 12 small corn tortillas, 12cm
  • 1 white onion, finely diced
  • Handful of chopped coriander
  • Salsa verde and salsa roja
  • Lime wedges

Method

  1. Place the pork, orange halves (squeeze first, then drop in), garlic, bay, oregano, salt and lard in a heavy pot. Add water to just cover.
  2. Simmer uncovered for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, until the water has cooked off and the pork is browning in its own fat.
  3. Turn the heat up for the last 5 minutes to crisp the edges. Shred coarsely with two forks.
  4. Warm two corn tortillas per taco directly on a gas flame or in a dry skillet for 20 seconds a side until pliable.
  5. Stack them, fill with carnitas, top with onion, coriander, a squeeze of lime and salsa to taste.
  6. Eat over a plate; the tortillas will leak in a good way.

Tip from the editors. Use small 12cm corn tortillas, not flour; the doubled corn is structural and absorbs the rendered fat.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat mission-style tacos

Mission-style tacos in San Francisco

La Taqueria ★ 4.7

La Taqueria in San Francisco is the Mission burrito and taco counter where a twelve-dollar lunch is the city's most-cited cheap eat, since 1973 with no concessions.

Try: Carne asada burrito or doubled-corn tacos

Tip: Get the dorado-style burrito; the kitchen sears it on the plancha for a crisp edge that costs nothing extra.

El Farolito ★ 4.5

Until 02:30 Fri and Sat

El Farolito in San Francisco is the Mission's all-night taqueria on 24th and Mission, with the super burrito al pastor the city eats at 01:00 every weekend.

Try: Super burrito al pastor

Order: Super burrito al pastor with everything, plus a Mexican Coke.

Tip: The 23:00 to 01:00 window has the fastest line of the night; arrive at 01:30 and the line stretches outside.

Tacolicious ★ 4.1

Mexican (Mexico City-style)$$marina-cow-hollow

Tacolicious in San Francisco is the Mexico City-inspired taqueria on Chestnut Street in the Marina, with a Mission-style sister on Valencia.

Signature: Al pastor-ish chicken tacos, Carnitas tacos, Marina Girl salad

Order: A trio of al pastor-ish chicken, shot-and-a-beer braised brisket, and the guajillo-braised chicken.

Tip: The bar pours a sharp tommy's margarita; sit there for walk-in tacos before the dining room fills.

Taqueria San Jose ★ 4.2

Mexican taqueria (Jalisco)$the-mission

Taqueria San Jose in San Francisco is a Mission taqueria serving Jalisco-style cabeza, lengua and al pastor on doubled corn tortillas since 1980.

Signature: Cabeza taco, Lengua burrito, Carnitas taco

Order: A trio of cabeza, lengua and al pastor on doubled corn tortillas, with a horchata.

Tip: Half a block from the 24th Street BART; the new 2839 Mission space sits across from the original storefront.

Taqueria El Buen Sabor ★ 4.1

Mexican taqueria$the-mission

Taqueria El Buen Sabor in San Francisco is a family-run Valencia Street taqueria at Valencia and 18th, serving the Mission since 1995 at sub-twelve-dollar prices.

Signature: Carne asada super burrito, Al pastor tacos, Tortas

Order: The carne asada super burrito with everything and a cold horchata.

Tip: Open 11:00 to 21:30 daily; busiest at 13:00, quieter for an early dinner at 17:00.

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