History

Hush puppies emerged in the American South in the 19th century, with the etymological folktale claiming Confederate soldiers tossed cornbread scraps to barking dogs around the campfire with the phrase 'hush, puppies'. The dish became a Mississippi River catfish-fry tradition, with Memphis adopting it as the universal companion to fried catfish and BBQ plates. The Memphis-distinctive style includes a small amount of sugar in the batter, finely grated onion, and a hint of cayenne. They are deep-fried in the same oil as the day's catfish or chicken. Soul Fish Cafe, Earnestine and Hazel's and Alcenia's run reference versions.

Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy, Egg

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 25 minTotal 35 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 300g fine yellow cornmeal (a Southern stone-ground cornmeal is ideal; substitute with regular yellow cornmeal in a pinch)
  • 100g all-purpose flour
  • 30g granulated sugar (the Memphis sweet note; do not skip)
  • 2 tsp baking powder
  • 1 tsp fine sea salt
  • 1/2 tsp freshly cracked black pepper
  • 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
  • 1 large yellow onion, finely grated (about 200g; this is the structural Memphis flavour)
  • 2 spring onions, finely sliced
  • 2 large eggs, beaten
  • 250ml whole buttermilk, well shaken
  • 30g unsalted butter, melted
  • 1 tbsp hot sauce (Crystal or Frank's, classic Memphis brands)
  • 1.5L vegetable oil for deep-frying (or use the same oil after frying catfish for a true Memphis flavour)
  • Maldon sea salt for finishing
  • For honey butter dipping sauce: 100g unsalted butter (very soft)
  • 50g good honey
  • pinch of salt
  • 1/4 tsp cayenne; whisk together
  • Optional remoulade or tartar sauce: 200g mayonnaise
  • 2 tbsp drained capers (chopped)
  • 2 tbsp pickled relish or finely diced cornichon
  • 1 tbsp Creole mustard
  • 1 tsp lemon juice
  • 1 tsp paprika

Method

  1. Whisk the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, black pepper and cayenne in a large bowl.
  2. In a separate bowl, whisk the buttermilk, eggs, melted butter and hot sauce together.
  3. Fold the wet into the dry just until combined; do not over-mix (small lumps are fine; over-mixing gives heavy hush puppies).
  4. Fold in the finely grated onion and the sliced spring onions. The batter should be thick enough to mound on a spoon but still slightly loose; let rest 10 minutes for the cornmeal to hydrate.
  5. Meanwhile, mix the honey butter and remoulade in small bowls; chill until needed.
  6. Heat the oil in a deep heavy pot to 175 degrees Celsius (use a thermometer; temperature is critical).
  7. Drop heaped tablespoons of batter into the hot oil (use a small ice-cream scoop or two spoons for consistent rounds); cook 5 to 6 hush puppies at a time, not crowded.
  8. Fry for 3 to 4 minutes, turning once with a slotted spoon, until deeply golden brown all over and the centres are cooked through (test the first one by breaking open; should be soft but not raw).
  9. Lift onto paper to drain; immediately sprinkle with Maldon sea salt while hot.
  10. Continue frying in batches until all batter is used; keep cooked hush puppies warm in a 100 degrees Celsius oven if needed.
  11. Pile into paper-lined baskets; serve with small ramekins of warm honey butter and remoulade alongside.
  12. Best eaten in the first 15 minutes; the texture goes from crispy-fluffy to soft as they cool.

Tip from the editors. The grated onion is the structural Memphis flavour; do not skip or substitute with onion powder. Fry in oil that has been previously used for catfish for the most authentic Memphis flavour. The double-fried potato approach does not work for hush puppies; one fry is correct.

Where to eat memphis hush puppies

Memphis Hush Puppies in Memphis

Soul Fish Cafe ★ 4.3

Cajun & Creole$cooper-young

Soul Fish Cafe in Cooper-Young Memphis on South Cooper runs catfish baskets, hush puppies and Mississippi-style po'boys under $15, the city's cheap-catfish.

Try: Catfish plate

Order: Catfish basket with hush puppies and turnip greens.

Tip: Counter service. The shrimp po'boy is the dark-horse order. Patio in spring is the seat.

862 S Cooper St, Memphis, TN 38104

Alcenia's ★ 4.5

Soul food$$pinch-district

Alcenia's in the Pinch District north of downtown Memphis runs Betty Joyce Chester-Tamayo's soul food and her famous door-greeting hug since 2002.

Why locals love it: Tourists rarely walk this far north of Beale; B.J.'s hug is what brings everyone back.

Tip: Counter service, cash preferred. Closed Sundays and Mondays. B.J. greets every diner.

317 N Main St, Memphis, TN 38103

Earnestine and Hazel's Soul Burger ★ 4.5

Burgers$south-main

Earnestine and Hazel's Soul Burger on South Main downtown Memphis is the city's $8 late-night bar burger, griddled with onions, pickles and Soul Sauce.

Try: Soul Burger

Order: Soul Burger with a cold beer; sit at the bar.

Tip: Cash works fastest. The kitchen runs late, food until 02:00.

531 S Main St, Memphis, TN 38103

Arcade Restaurant ★ 4.2

BrunchClassic diner$$$8-14south-mainDaily 07:00-15:00Walk-in

Arcade Restaurant on South Main downtown Memphis is the city's oldest diner since 1919, with sweet potato pancakes, fried PB and banana sandwiches.

Order: Sweet potato pancakes with bacon.

Tip: No reservations. Sit at Elvis's marked booth for the photo; weekday mornings are quietest.

540 S Main St, Memphis, TN 38103

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