History

Memelas are the canonical Oaxacan breakfast: a thick masa round pinched at the edges to hold the toppings, toasted on the comal and dressed with asiento, refried beans, salsa and crumbled queso fresco or quesillo. The Memelas Dona Vale counter at Mercado de Abastos is the most famous early-morning stand; Itanoni serves a heritage-corn version that locals consider the city's reference for criollo-maize masa.

Common allergens: Dairy (queso fresco optional)

Make it at home

Yield Makes 8 memelasHands-on 30 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 300g masa harina
  • Warm water
  • 2 tbsp asiento (rendered pork lard) or lard
  • 200g refried black beans
  • 100g queso fresco or pulled quesillo
  • Salsa de molcajete
  • Sliced avocado (optional)
  • Sea salt

Method

  1. Mix the masa harina with warm water and a pinch of salt to a soft, slightly sticky dough.
  2. Divide into 8 balls and press each into a 12-cm round, 1cm thick.
  3. Pinch the edges up to form a small lip.
  4. Toast each memela on a hot comal 90 seconds per side until lightly charred.
  5. Spread asiento on the toasted side; smear refried beans; sprinkle queso fresco.
  6. Return to the comal 60 seconds to warm the toppings.
  7. Finish with salsa and avocado; eat warm.

Tip from the editors. The pinched edge isn't decorative; it stops the bean and salsa from running off the comal.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat memelas

Memelas in Oaxaca

More cities are in research. Want memelas covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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