Memelas Dona Vale (Mercado de Abastos) ★ 4.6
Memelas Dona Vale at Mercado de Abastos is the famous comal counter with thick masa memelas topped with morita-chile sauce, asiento (pork lard) and quesillo.
Try: Memelas with morita chile
Memelas are thick masa rounds toasted on the comal and topped with asiento, frijol, salsa and quesillo, the canonical Oaxacan home-kitchen breakfast.
Where to eat it: 5 restaurants across 1 city.
Memelas are the canonical Oaxacan breakfast: a thick masa round pinched at the edges to hold the toppings, toasted on the comal and dressed with asiento, refried beans, salsa and crumbled queso fresco or quesillo. The Memelas Dona Vale counter at Mercado de Abastos is the most famous early-morning stand; Itanoni serves a heritage-corn version that locals consider the city's reference for criollo-maize masa.
Common allergens: Dairy (queso fresco optional)
Tip from the editors. The pinched edge isn't decorative; it stops the bean and salsa from running off the comal.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Memelas Dona Vale at Mercado de Abastos is the famous comal counter with thick masa memelas topped with morita-chile sauce, asiento (pork lard) and quesillo.
Try: Memelas with morita chile
Itanoni in Reforma serves the Oaxacan breakfast canon from 07:00 daily: memelas with frijol, tetelas with hierba santa and a chocolate or atole de granillo.
Order: Memelas with frijol and quesillo, atole
Comedor Yolis inside Mercado Sanchez Pascuas runs comida-corrida lunch for 60-80 pesos and 20-peso tamales from morning, the locals-only daily crowd.
Try: Tamales and memelas
Comala on Pino Suarez runs until 01:00 Monday to Saturday with Oaxacan plates, mezcal cocktails and a courtyard that draws the after-Selva crowd most nights.
Try: Oaxacan plates and mezcal
Almu is the open-air room in San Martin Tilcajete (alebrijes village), an open-fire kitchen of memelas, enmoladas and tlayudas in the 2025 Michelin Guide.
Tip: Lunch only, from 1pm; the menu is handwritten daily on butcher paper. Allow an hour from the centro by taxi.
More cities are in research. Want memelas covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.