La Despensa del Etxanobe ★ 4.3
La Despensa in Bilbao is Etxanobe's Michelin-Guide bistro side beside the Atelier, with a Bilbao tasting menu and traditional Basque a la carte plates.
History
Marmitako takes its name from the marmita, the cast-iron pot Basque sailors cooked it in. The dish appeared in the 19th century along the Cantabrian coast, when bonito boats from Bermeo and Santurtzi simmered the catch with potatoes, choricero peppers and onions in a single pot. By the 1980s, marmitako had crossed from boat to taberna and is now the canonical summer Basque stew, eaten July through September across Bilbao tabernas. Casa Rufo, La Despensa de Etxanobe and the older Bilbao kitchens run the seasonal version.
Common allergens: Fish
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 500g bonito or fresh tuna belly, cut into 3cm cubes
- 4 large potatoes, peeled and cracked (not cut) into chunks
- 2 onions, finely chopped
- 2 green peppers, finely chopped
- 4 ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped
- 2 tablespoons choricero pepper paste
- 1 litre fish stock
- 200ml white wine
- Olive oil, salt
Method
- Heat olive oil in a heavy pot. Sweat the onions and green peppers 10 minutes over low heat.
- Add the tomatoes, simmer 10 minutes until thick.
- Stir in the choricero pepper paste, cook 2 minutes.
- Add the cracked potatoes (cracking releases starch and thickens the stew), pour over the white wine and fish stock. Simmer 25 minutes until potatoes are tender.
- Off the heat, slip in the tuna cubes. Cover and rest 5 minutes; residual heat cooks the tuna to medium.
- Taste for salt, serve in deep bowls with bread on the side.
Tip from the editors. Crack the potatoes by inserting a knife and twisting rather than cutting straight; the rough edge releases starch and binds the stew.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Where to eat marmitako
Marmitako in Bilbao
Casa Rufo ★ 4.5
Casa Rufo on Hurtado de Amezaga in Bilbao since 1955 grills the canonical Bilbao txuleta over open flame, between deli counter and dining room.
Signature: Txuleta, Bacalao al pil pil, Pimientos del piquillo
Order: The txuleta from the grill; the bacalao al pil pil as the starter.
Tip: Lunch 13:30 to 16:00, dinner 20:30 to 23:00; closed Sundays. The deli counter is worth a look.
Anboto Gastroleku ★ 4.0
Anboto Gastroleku on Jardines in Bilbao runs a Casco Viejo pintxo bar downstairs and 110-cover Basque restaurant with menu del dia upstairs.
Try: Menu del dia
More cities are in research. Want marmitako covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.