La Despensa del Etxanobe ★ 4.3
La Despensa in Bilbao is Etxanobe's Michelin-Guide bistro side beside the Atelier, with a Bilbao tasting menu and traditional Basque a la carte plates.
History
Marmitako takes its name from the marmita, the cast-iron pot Basque sailors cooked it in. The dish appeared in the 19th century along the Cantabrian coast, when bonito boats from Bermeo and Santurtzi simmered the catch with potatoes, choricero peppers and onions in a single pot. By the 1980s, marmitako had crossed from boat to taberna and is now the canonical summer Basque stew, eaten July through September across Bilbao tabernas. Casa Rufo, La Despensa de Etxanobe and the older Bilbao kitchens run the seasonal version.
Common allergens: Fish
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 500g bonito or fresh tuna belly, cut into 3cm cubes
- 4 large potatoes, peeled and cracked (not cut) into chunks
- 2 onions, finely chopped
- 2 green peppers, finely chopped
- 4 ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped
- 2 tablespoons choricero pepper paste
- 1 litre fish stock
- 200ml white wine
- Olive oil, salt
Method
- Heat olive oil in a heavy pot. Sweat the onions and green peppers 10 minutes over low heat.
- Add the tomatoes, simmer 10 minutes until thick.
- Stir in the choricero pepper paste, cook 2 minutes.
- Add the cracked potatoes (cracking releases starch and thickens the stew), pour over the white wine and fish stock. Simmer 25 minutes until potatoes are tender.
- Off the heat, slip in the tuna cubes. Cover and rest 5 minutes; residual heat cooks the tuna to medium.
- Taste for salt, serve in deep bowls with bread on the side.
Tip from the editors. Crack the potatoes by inserting a knife and twisting rather than cutting straight; the rough edge releases starch and binds the stew.
Where to eat marmitako
Marmitako in Bilbao
Casa Rufo ★ 4.5
Casa Rufo on Hurtado de Amezaga in Bilbao since 1955 grills the canonical Bilbao txuleta over open flame, between deli counter and dining room.
Signature: Txuleta, Bacalao al pil pil, Pimientos del piquillo
Order: The txuleta from the grill; the bacalao al pil pil as the starter.
Tip: Lunch 13:30-16:00, dinner 20:30-23:00; closed Sundays. The deli counter is worth a look.
Anboto Gastroleku ★ 4.0
Anboto Gastroleku on Jardines in Bilbao runs a Casco Viejo pintxo bar downstairs and 110-cover Basque restaurant with menu del dia upstairs.
Try: Menu del dia
Marmitako in San Sebastián
Casa Urola ★ 4.5
Casa Urola on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town keeps one of the most complete Basque wine lists in the Old Town, with Txakoli on tap and a deep.
Signature pour: Itsasmendi Txakoli by the glass
Wine focus: Basque Txakoli, Rioja Alavesa and growers
Food: Pintxos counter and full dining room upstairs
Tip: Drink Txakoli at the counter; the dining room upstairs lets you settle in with a half-bottle of Rioja.
Bodegon Alejandro ★ 4.5
Bodegon Alejandro on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian is the underground Old Town room where Martin Berasategui won his first Michelin star in 1986.
Signature: Merluza a la donostiarra, Txuleta, Tarta de queso
Order: The merluza a la donostiarra in cazuela and the txuleta from the grill; finish with the burnt-top cheesecake.
Tip: Book the 14:00 lunch slot for the calmer service. The staircase entry is easy to miss; the door is set below street level.
Casa Vergara ★ 4.2
Casa Vergara on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town since 1948 turns out the bacalao al pil pil pintxo for under 4 euros, the canonical budget bite.
Try: Bacalao al pil pil pintxo with a glass of Txakoli
Tip: Terrace fills first; the pintxo plus Txakoli is under 6 euros.
Gandarias ★ 4.5
Gandarias on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian's Old Town runs one of the longest pintxo display counters in the quarter, with a back dining room.
Signature: Solomillo a la plancha, Jamon iberico, Pintxos clasicos
Order: The solomillo a la plancha on bread with sea salt and a fried Padron; the jamon iberico from the counter.
Tip: Open continuously through siesta, the rare Old Town room that does not shut at 16:00. The counter is busy; the back room takes reservations.
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