Çiya Sofrası ★ 4.8
Chef Musa Dağdeviren's culinary-anthropology lokanta in Kadıköy market, plating regional Turkish dishes drawn from his fieldwork since 1998.
Signature: Kebap of the day, Forgotten Anatolian stews, Vegetarian dolma
Tiny meat-filled dumplings the size of a thumbprint, boiled, served under garlic yogurt and finished with melted butter and Aleppo pepper oil.
Where to eat it: 2 restaurants across 1 city.
Mantı arrived in Anatolia with the Turkic migrations from Central Asia and became a Kayseri specialty by the 15th century, traditionally served at weddings and family feasts. Istanbul homes still measure cooks by whether their mantı is small enough that 40 fit on a spoon; restaurants serve a looser, larger version. The garlic-yoghurt sauce, sumac and a drizzle of melted butter with paprika and dried mint are the canonical Istanbul finishing; the dish is eaten with a spoon rather than fork.
Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy, Eggs
Tip from the editors. The mantı should be small enough that one bite holds three or four; if you can taste them individually, they are too big.
Chef Musa Dağdeviren's culinary-anthropology lokanta in Kadıköy market, plating regional Turkish dishes drawn from his fieldwork since 1998.
Signature: Kebap of the day, Forgotten Anatolian stews, Vegetarian dolma
Civan Er's first Istanbul kitchen, off Istiklal in Beyoğlu since 2013, doing wood-oven Anatolian plates and a long-running 50 Best Discovery listing.
More cities are in research. Want mantı (turkish dumplings) covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.