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The appetizing platter is a New York Jewish-deli ritual: a hand-sliced bagel topped with cream cheese, ribboned cold-smoked salmon (lox), shaved red onion, capers and tomato. Saturday brunch in a single bite.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.

The lox bagel emerged on the Lower East Side in the early 20th century as Jewish-immigrant appetizing stores refined a way to use the briny cold-smoked salmon shipped down from the Pacific Northwest packing trade. Russ & Daughters opened in 1914 on Orchard Street and pioneered the hand-sliced, paper-thin Gaspe Nova-style cut that defines the platter. Zabar's brought the same template uptown to the Upper West Side in 1934. The appetizing tradition (dairy and smoked-fish under kosher law) made the lox-bagel-and-shmear a Saturday-morning institution that survived as a New York identity marker long after most appetizing stores closed.
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Common allergens: Gluten, Fish, Dairy
Tip from the editors. Hand-slice lox paper-thin against the grain with a long, thin blade; supermarket pre-sliced is rubbery. Cream cheese must be at room temperature or it tears.
Russ & Daughters has slung appetising on East Houston in New York City since 1914: hand-sliced smoked salmon, sturgeon, schmaltz herring and bagels to take.
OrderThe Classic: Gaspe Nova lox, cream cheese, tomato, onion, capers on a poppy bagel.
TipThe shop is for take-away. Sit down at Russ & Daughters Cafe around the corner on Orchard for table service.
Russ & Daughters Cafe on Orchard Street is the sit-down sister of the Houston Street counter in New York City. Located in Lower East Side. At 127 Orchard St..
DrinkEgg cream
TipBrunch books two weeks out on weekends. Tuesday and Wednesday lunch is the easy walk-in for the same plates.
Zabar's on Broadway has anchored Upper West Side appetising in New York City since 1934. At 2245 Broadway. Booking recommended. Reservations advised.
Worth the queueBlack-and-white cookies, babka
TipTake a number at the appetising counter the moment you walk in; the bakery side has no number system.
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