History

Aubrey and Nona Lankford opened the Lankford Grocery & Market on Dennis Street in 1939 as a Fourth Ward mom-and-pop grocery; the family started cooking lunch for the neighbourhood and the burger became a fixture from the 1970s, with daughter Eydie Lankford Prior taking over operations. Anthony Bourdain featured the Lankford Burger on No Reservations in 2008; the line has not shortened since. Houstonians regularly call it the city's defining burger.

Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy, Egg

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 20 minTotal 25 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 600g ground beef chuck (80/20 fat ratio)
  • 4 sesame seed hamburger buns
  • 4 thick slices American cheese (or yellow cheddar)
  • 4 leaves iceberg lettuce, washed and dried
  • 1 large beefsteak tomato, sliced into 4 thick rounds
  • 1 small white onion, sliced into thin rings
  • 8 dill pickle chips
  • 4 tbsp yellow mustard
  • 4 tbsp mayonnaise
  • 30g unsalted butter, for the buns
  • Sea salt, freshly ground black pepper
  • Texas-style fries or potato chips, to serve

Method

  1. Divide the ground beef into 4 equal balls (150g each). Do not overwork; just form into balls.
  2. Heat a cast-iron skillet or flat griddle over medium-high heat until smoking.
  3. Slice the buns in half. Butter the cut sides and toast on the dry griddle for 60 seconds until golden. Set aside.
  4. Press a ball onto the hot griddle, flatten with a spatula to a 1.5cm patty, season heavily with salt and pepper. Repeat for all four; do not crowd.
  5. Sear 90 seconds undisturbed for a deep crust. Flip with a stiff spatula scraping under the crust.
  6. Immediately lay a cheese slice on each patty. Cook another 90 seconds for medium; the cheese should melt and slump over the edges.
  7. Spread mustard on the bottom bun, mayo on the top bun.
  8. Stack: bottom bun, lettuce leaf, tomato slice, onion rings, pickle chips, then the cheese-topped patty.
  9. Crown with the top bun. Press gently and serve immediately with fries.

Tip from the editors. The Lankford bite is mustard-first, mayo-second; do not switch the spreads or you get a different burger. Iceberg, not gem lettuce; American cheese, not cheddar.

Where to eat lankford grocery burger

Lankford Grocery Burger in Houston

Lankford Grocery & Market ★ 4.4

Burgers$

Lankford Grocery & Market in Houston is the 1939 Midtown corner-store-turned-burger-shack on Dennis Street, with the Grim Hatch-chile burger under $15.

Try: The Grim Hatch-chile burger

Tip: Get the Grim with sweet potato fries. Closed weekends. Counter and outdoor picnic tables only.

Goode Company Barbeque ★ 4.3

Texas Barbecue$rice-village-upper-kirby

Goode Company Barbeque on Kirby Drive in Houston is Jim Goode's 1977 mesquite-smoked barbecue room, the city's introduction to commercial Texas barbecue.

Signature: Brisket, Jalapeno pork sausage

Order: Brisket and a jalapeno pork sausage link. Jambalaya. Pecan pie to close.

Tip: Multiple Goode Company locations across Houston exist. The Kirby flagship is the original and the only one with the screened porch.

Eight Row Flint ★ 4.4

Mexican$the-heights

Eight Row Flint in Houston is the Heights icehouse from Agricole Hospitality in a converted Citgo gas station on Yale Street, with brisket tacos.

Signature: Brisket tacos, Margarita

Order: Brisket tacos, the frozen-tied-with-Topo-Chico margarita, queso fundido.

Tip: The patio under the old gas station canopy is the seat. East End second location for a different crowd.

Tiny Boxwoods ★ 4.0

BrunchGarden-cafe brunch$$$20-32Sat-Sun 09:00-15:00 brunchWalk-in only, weekend wait can hit 90 min

Tiny Boxwoods brunch in Houston is the garden-cafe on West Alabama in the Thompson + Hanson nursery, with brunch plates, the Tiny chocolate chip cookie.

Order: Tiny Cake (the chocolate chip cookie), pancakes, the garden frittata

Tip: Walk-in only. Get there by 9:30am Saturday to beat the 90-minute wait. Tiny cookies travel home; order extras.

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