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Join us on this fantastic food tour to taste and learn everything you've ever wanted to know about French gastronomy. Savory and sweet specialities...
Lamproie a la bordelaise is Bordeaux's most ancient signature, an eel-like fish from the Dordogne and Garonne cooked in its own blood with red wine, leeks and ham, into a deep mahogany stew.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
Lamproie a la bordelaise predates entrecote a la bordelaise by centuries; the recipe traces to medieval Aquitaine. The lamprey is the only fish bled alive in preparation, its blood mixed with red wine to bind the sauce. Lampreys run the Dordogne and Garonne from February through April, and the dish appears on Bordeaux menus only in that window. La Tupina serves it through the season in its fireplace cauldron.
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Common allergens: Fish
Tip from the editors. Lamprey is only available February to April; outside this window, do not attempt with frozen lamprey, the texture is wrong.
La Tupina in Bordeaux's Saint-Pierre district is the southwestern French institution founded by Jean-Pierre Xiradakis in 1968, now led by chef Franck Audu.
SignatureEntrecote a la bordelaise, Tricandilles, Sanguette
TipSit near the open fire for the tricandilles; the lunch formula is a serious value if you book ahead for noon on a weekday.
Le Petit Commerce in Bordeaux's Saint-Pierre is the Rue du Parlement seafood institution, with raw oysters from Arcachon and grilled fish from the Atlantic.
SignatureAtlantic oysters, Grilled sardines, Lampreys in season
TipOrder the oysters by the half-dozen and the grilled pulpitos; the terrace gets the most light from 12:30 onwards.
La Brasserie Bordelaise in Bordeaux's Saint-Pierre is the golden-triangle institution on Rue Saint-Remi with non-stop kitchen service from noon to midnight.
OrderBeef cheek a la bordelaise with a glass of Saint-Estephe
TipKitchen runs without a break so a 22:30 plat principal is no problem; book a window table for the after-theatre crowd.
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