Lamproie a la bordelaise is Bordeaux's most ancient signature, an eel-like fish from the Dordogne and Garonne cooked in its own blood with red wine, leeks and ham, into a deep mahogany stew.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
Lamproie a la bordelaise predates entrecote a la bordelaise by centuries; the recipe traces to medieval Aquitaine. The lamprey is the only fish bled alive in preparation, its blood mixed with red wine to bind the sauce. Lampreys run the Dordogne and Garonne from February through April, and the dish appears on Bordeaux menus only in that window. La Tupina serves it through the season in its fireplace cauldron.
Common allergens: Fish
Tip from the editors. Lamprey is only available February to April; outside this window, do not attempt with frozen lamprey, the texture is wrong.
La Tupina in Bordeaux's Saint-Pierre district is the southwestern French institution founded by Jean-Pierre Xiradakis in 1968, now led by chef Franck Audu.
Signature: Entrecote a la bordelaise, Tricandilles, Sanguette
Tip: Sit near the open fire for the tricandilles; the lunch formula is a serious value if you book ahead for noon on a weekday.
Le Petit Commerce in Bordeaux's Saint-Pierre is the Rue du Parlement seafood institution, with raw oysters from Arcachon and grilled fish from the Atlantic.
Signature: Atlantic oysters, Grilled sardines, Lampreys in season
Tip: Order the oysters by the half-dozen and the grilled pulpitos; the terrace gets the most light from 12:30 onwards.
La Brasserie Bordelaise in Bordeaux's Saint-Pierre is the golden-triangle institution on Rue Saint-Remi with non-stop kitchen service from noon to midnight.
Try: Southwestern French plates, foie gras, cassoulet
Order: Beef cheek a la bordelaise with a glass of Saint-Estephe
Tip: Kitchen runs without a break so a 22:30 plat principal is no problem; book a window table for the after-theatre crowd.
More cities are in research. Want lamproie a la bordelaise covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.