Küşleme
Photo: JIP · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

Küşleme is Gaziantep's status kebab. It uses only the tenderloin, so a whole lamb yields a couple of portions and the daily allocation runs out well before closing time. No marinade is used, because the point is the meat: the cubes are threaded tight, salted and grilled over hot charcoal for a few minutes only. Kebapçı Halil Usta and Küşlemeci Mehmet Usta both built single-dish businesses on it, and both shut once the day's supply is gone. It is served with grilled peppers, flatbread and yayık ayran, the churned buttermilk drink that cuts the fat.

Make it at home

Yield Serves 2Hands-on 20 minTotal 30 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 400g lamb tenderloin, trimmed
  • 60g lamb tail fat, cut into small cubes
  • Coarse salt
  • 4 long green peppers
  • Flatbread, to serve
  • Ayran, to serve

Method

  1. Cut the tenderloin into 2cm cubes and leave it at room temperature for 20 minutes. Do not marinate it.
  2. Thread the lamb onto flat skewers, alternating every third piece with a cube of tail fat.
  3. Salt generously just before grilling, not before, or the meat will weep.
  4. Grill over very hot charcoal for 2 to 3 minutes a side, turning once, until browned outside and pink within.
  5. Grill the peppers alongside until blistered.
  6. Rest the skewers on warm flatbread for 2 minutes so the bread takes the juices, then serve with ayran.

Tip from the editors. If tenderloin is out of reach, use trimmed loin, but drop the cooking time. Anything tougher wants a marinade and stops being küşleme.

Where to eat küşleme

Küşleme in Gaziantep

Kebapçı Halil Usta ★ 4.6

₺₺₺ TurkishSehitkamil

Kebapçı Halil Usta charges fine-dining money for one thing in Gaziantep, küşleme, and shuts the grill once the day's lamb tenderloin has gone.

OrderKüşleme, ordered by weight rather than by portion.

TipArrive by 12:30. The tenderloin allocation is the whole business and it does not last.

Küşlemeci Mehmet Usta ★ 4.4

₺₺₺ TurkishAlleben

Küşlemeci Mehmet Usta is a single-dish kitchen in Gaziantep, grilling lamb tenderloin over charcoal and serving it with churned yayık ayran.

OrderKüşleme, plus the yayık ayran that comes with it.

TipSmall portions, high price per gram. That is what the cut costs, not a tourist mark-up.

Bayazhan ★ 4.4

₺₺₺ TurkishSahinbeyUntil 24:00

Bayazhan keeps its caravanserai meyhane in Gaziantep running to midnight with live fasıl, rakı and a küşleme allocation that sells out early.

TryKüşleme and meze

TipReserve the küşleme when you book. After ten o'clock the grill is usually out of it.

Çulcuoğlu Et Lokantası ★ 4.5

₺₺ TurkishSahinbey

Çulcuoğlu Et Lokantası is the esnaf lokanta of the Gaziantep bazaar, serving kebab, pide and bottomless soup to coppersmiths and shoppers alike.

OrderKuşbaşı kebab with firik pilav and the free soup refill.

TipComplimentary fruit and soup arrive unasked. Do not over-order the starters.

All Gaziantep signature dishes →

More cities are in research. Want küşleme covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

Browse all dishes →