Karaköy Lokantası ★ 4.5
The teal-tiled Karaköy Lokantası, Bib Gourmand listed in the Michelin Guide, runs an Ottoman-leaning lunch lokanta downstairs and a meyhane upstairs at night.
Signature: Lakerda, Hünkar beğendi, Lamb shank
History
Kuru fasulye took hold across Anatolia after dried white beans arrived from the New World in the 17th century. The Istanbul esnaf-lokantasi tradition, the trade-guild canteens that fed shopkeepers and craftsmen, made it the canonical lunch plate; pilav with kuru fasulye, pickle and ayran is the working-city meal.
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 400g dried white beans (cannellini or dermason), soaked overnight
- 300g lamb shoulder, cut in 3cm cubes (optional)
- 1 large onion, finely chopped
- 3 cloves garlic, sliced
- 1 tablespoon tomato paste
- 1 tablespoon red pepper paste (biber salcasi)
- 2 ripe tomatoes, grated
- 1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper
- 1 teaspoon sweet paprika
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- 1.5 litres water or light lamb stock
- Salt and black pepper
- Pilav and pickled chillies, to serve
Method
- Drain the soaked beans and rinse. Place in a heavy pot, cover with cold water, bring to a boil and cook 5 minutes; drain again.
- Heat olive oil in the same pot. Brown the lamb on all sides if using; lift out.
- Soften the onion 8 minutes until translucent. Add garlic and cook 1 minute more.
- Stir in tomato paste, red pepper paste, grated tomato, Aleppo pepper and paprika; cook 3 minutes until the paste deepens in colour.
- Return the lamb. Add the beans and pour in the water or stock to cover by 4cm.
- Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook 90 minutes to 2 hours until the beans are soft but holding shape and the lamb pulls apart with a fork.
- Season generously with salt and black pepper. Rest 10 minutes before serving over pilav with pickled chillies.
Tip from the editors. Salt only at the end; salting the soaking water or the early simmer toughens the bean skins and the stew turns mealy.
Where to eat kuru fasulye (white bean stew)
Kuru fasulye (white bean stew) in Istanbul
Hayvore ★ 4.4
Hayvore off Istiklal, the Black Sea steam-table cooking corn-bread anchovies and smoky bean stews for whoever knows the side street. Located in Beyoğlu.
Why locals love it: Locals fill it for the Black Sea menu, tourists walk past for the larger Istiklal places ten metres away.
Tip: Order the hamsi pilav and the muhlama; they only run while supplies last.
Tarihi Hocapaşa Pidecisi ★ 4.2
Tarihi Hocapaşa Pidecisi in Sirkeci, where a kıymalı pide costs under 180 lira and beats every tourist trap on the historic peninsula for the same money.
Try: Wood-oven pide
More cities are in research. Want kuru fasulye (white bean stew) covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.