History

Koay teow th'ng, literally noodle soup in Teochew, is the gentle sibling in Penang's noodle canon, built on clarity where char koay teow is built on smoke. Teochew cooks judged each other on broth transparency and springy hand-made fish balls; stalls like Pitt Street have made theirs from sea eel daily for over 60 years, and Ah Boy on Lebuh Clarke carries a second-generation recipe. It is the bowl Penangites call comfort, breakfast and convalescence food in one.

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Common allergens: Fish, Soy

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 2 hrDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 1 chicken carcass and 300g pork bones
  • 2 litres water
  • 300g white fish paste, seasoned with salt and white pepper
  • 400g fresh flat rice noodles
  • 4 tablespoons garlic oil with crisp garlic bits
  • 150g poached chicken, shredded
  • Scallions, white pepper, fish sauce

Method

  1. Simmer chicken carcass and pork bones in water for 90 minutes, skimming often; the broth should stay clear, never boil hard.
  2. Wet your hands and squeeze the fish paste into small balls; poach them in the broth until they float, about 3 minutes.
  3. Season the broth with fish sauce and white pepper, keeping it light.
  4. Blanch the noodles briefly, bowl them, and top with fish balls and shredded chicken.
  5. Ladle over the hot broth and finish with garlic oil, crisp garlic and scallions.

Tip from the editors. Skim relentlessly and never let the pot gallop; a cloudy broth is the one mistake a Teochew grandmother will not forgive.

Where to eat koay teow th'ng

Koay teow th'ng in Penang

Pitt Street Koay Teow Soup ★ 4.3

$ ChineseGeorge Town

Pitt Street Koay Teow Soup has made eel fish balls daily for over 60 years, the morning Penang bowl the Michelin guide tracked to Carnarvon Street.

Why locals goThe name still says Pitt Street though the stall moved to Carnarvon Street in 2009, so even map apps send people the wrong way.

TipThe sea-eel fish balls are the reason to come; order an extra side bowl of them because the soup portion is modest.

Directions

Ah Boy Koay Teow Th'ng ★ 4.2

$ Street foodGeorge Town

Ah Boy Koay Teow Th'ng simmers chicken and pork-bone broth on Lebuh Clarke, a second-generation Bib Gourmand breakfast from RM5.50 in Penang.

TryKoay teow th'ng

TipTry the dry-tossed version with the soup on the side; the springy tendon balls are the add-on worth the ringgit.

Directions

Fook Cheow Cafe ★ 4.2

$ ChinesePulau Tikus

Fook Cheow Cafe ladles morning-only koay teow th'ng with mackerel fish balls on Hutton Lane, a Penang local secret listed in the Michelin guide.

Why locals goThe signage is so faded most people walk past; only the packed morning tables give away thirty years of koay teow th'ng.

TipThe broth runs out around noon; come by 09:00 and take the deep-fried garlic topping without hesitation.

Directions

Super Star Koay Teow Soup ★ 4.3

$ Street foodGeorge TownUntil 23:00, closed WednesdaysCash only

Super Star Koay Teow Soup works Kimberley Street's night shift until 23:00, the Bib Gourmand cart lighting Penang's classic supper lane since 1960.

TryKoay teow soup with braised chicken feet

TipKimberley Street is at its best after 21:00; do this bowl, then browse the neighbouring dessert and duck stalls.

Directions

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