Tri Sesira ★ 4.6
Tri Sesira (Three Hats) opened on Skadarska in 1864 in a building whose previous workshop had three pleated hats for trademark. Skadarlija anchor.
Signature drink: Sljivovica, Tamjanika
Food: Cevapi, sarma, gibanica, mixed grill
History
Kajmak is the canonical Balkan dairy product, with documented Ottoman-era production across the wider region from the 16th century onward. Serbian kajmak from Čačak and Kraljevo holds protected designation of origin (PDO) status, recognised by both the Serbian Patent Office and the EU geographical indications register. The production technique is slow: milk is heated to 90 degrees Celsius, cooled overnight, and the cream skin (kajmak) gradually layered into wooden buckets across days. Belgrade kafane (Lorenzo and Kakalamba, Tri Šešira) serve it at the start of every grill platter and as the centerpiece of the meze; every Serbian household keeps a tub.
Common allergens: Dairy
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 2 litres full-fat raw milk (unhomogenised)
- Sea salt to taste
Method
- Pour the milk into a wide heavy pan and slowly heat over the lowest possible flame for 2 hours, without stirring or boiling.
- The milk should never bubble; the surface forms a thick skin as the proteins and fat rise.
- Cool the pan in the fridge overnight, undisturbed.
- Carefully lift the firm cream layer off the top of the milk with a slotted spatula.
- Place the cream layer into a small dish, fold gently, and salt very lightly.
- Cover and rest at room temperature for 24 hours to develop the slight tang.
- Refrigerate before serving. Spread on warm lepinja bread or alongside grilled meats.
Tip from the editors. Raw or non-homogenised milk is essential; supermarket UHT milk will not separate. The lowest heat is what makes the layers; rush the heat and you'll cook through.
Where to eat kajmak
Kajmak in Belgrade
Sesir Moj ★ 4.4
Sesir Moj has live tamburica weekdays 18:00-01:00 and weekend matinees from 15:00. The Skadarska kitchen keeps Serbian classics open until close in Belgrade.
Try: Karadjordjeva snicla, pljeskavica, mixed grill
Manufaktura ★ 4.7
Manufaktura on Kralja Petra plates traditional Serbian with regional cheeses, Mangalica meats and cherry iced tea in Belgrade. Large garden seating.
Signature: Cevapcici, Mangalica platter, Homemade cherry iced tea
Mala fabrika ukusa ★ 4.3
Mala fabrika ukusa in Belgrade's Vracar puts modern Serbian cooking into a garden courtyard. The Slatka Alhemija Ukusa dessert is finished at table.
More cities are in research. Want kajmak covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.