Develi1912 Samatya ★ 4.4
Develi has fired Gaziantep kebabs at its Samatya address for decades, the canonical Istanbul pistachio kebap stop behind the old Marmara walls.
Signature: Fıstıklı kebap, Içli köfte, Antep katmer
History
Iskender Efendi invented the dish in Bursa in the 1860s by setting the spit vertical instead of horizontal, so the meat fat dripped over the lamb instead of into the fire. The recipe travelled to Istanbul with Bursa migrants in the early 20th century; today Develi in Samatya and most major Istanbul kebab houses serve their own version.
Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 600g lamb leg, sliced very thinly across the grain
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1 teaspoon paprika
- 2 cloves garlic, grated
- Salt and black pepper
- 2 large pide flatbreads, cut into rough squares
- 400ml passata
- 1 teaspoon tomato paste
- 1 teaspoon dried oregano
- 100g unsalted butter
- 400g thick strained yogurt
- 2 medium tomatoes and 2 long green peppers for the side
Method
- Mix the cumin, paprika, garlic, salt and pepper into the lamb and rest 30 minutes.
- Sear the lamb in a hot pan in batches, 60 seconds a side, and rest on a board.
- Simmer the passata with tomato paste, oregano and a splash of water for 10 minutes until thick.
- Toast the pide squares in a dry pan and arrange on warmed plates.
- Pile the lamb over the pide, ladle hot tomato sauce on top, then finish with a pool of melted butter poured over the meat.
- Serve with strained yogurt and grilled tomato and pepper on the side.
Tip from the editors. The dish lives or dies on the butter. Use unsalted, melt it past the foam stage so it turns nutty, then pour over the lamb just before eating.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Where to eat iskender kebap
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