History

Oyster farming in the Bassin d'Arcachon dates from the second half of the 19th century, when Napoleon III imported Portuguese spat to compensate for declines in the native gravette oyster. Today the Bassin produces around 8,000 tonnes a year, and the cabanes of L'Herbe, Le Canon and Cap Ferret are the producer addresses. Chez Jean-Mi at Marche des Capucins is the urban Bordeaux address.

Common allergens: Shellfish

Make it at home

Yield 2Hands-on 15 minTotal 15 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 12 fresh Arcachon oysters
  • 1 lemon, cut into wedges
  • Rye or sourdough bread, sliced
  • Salted butter (Bordier or Le Gall)
  • Coarse sea salt for serving
  • Optional: mignonette of red wine vinegar and shallot

Method

  1. Scrub the oysters under cold running water to clean the shells.
  2. Hold the oyster flat side up in a tea towel. Insert a shucking knife into the hinge and twist gently.
  3. Run the knife along the top shell to release the muscle. Discard the top, free the oyster from the bottom shell.
  4. Arrange on a bed of coarse sea salt on a chilled plate to keep them stable.
  5. Serve immediately with lemon wedges, buttered rye and a sharp white wine.

Tip from the editors. Arcachon natives need only lemon; avoid mignonette unless you have store-bought oysters of unknown freshness.

Where to eat arcachon oysters

Arcachon oysters in Bordeaux

Chez Jean-Mi ★ 4.4

French bistrocapucins

Chez Jean-Mi at Bordeaux's Marche des Capucins is the cheapest sit-down oyster meal in the city, with half-dozens and a glass of white before noon.

Try: Half-dozen oysters with a glass of Entre-deux-Mers

Tip: Arrive before 11:00 for a stool at the counter; closed Mondays.

La Boite a Huitres ★ 4.3

Seafood€€golden-triangle

Oyster bar on Cours du Chapeau-Rouge near Place de la Comedie, serving Arcachon and Belon oysters by the dozen with local white wines on terrace.

Why locals love it: Cours du Chapeau Rouge is famous for the Grand Theatre, less so for this raucous oyster terrace.

Tip: Belon oysters from Marennes-Oleron are €45 a dozen; the Arcachons are the locals' choice at half.

Le Petit Commerce ★ 4.4

Seafood€€saint-pierre

Le Petit Commerce in Bordeaux's Saint-Pierre is the Rue du Parlement seafood institution, with raw oysters from Arcachon and grilled fish from the Atlantic.

Signature: Atlantic oysters, Grilled sardines, Lampreys in season

Tip: Order the oysters by the half-dozen and the grilled pulpitos; the terrace gets the most light from 12:30 onwards.

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