Nijo Ichiba Ohiso ★ 4.1
A Nijo Market sushi-and-donburi counter. The cheapest kaisendon (mixed seafood-over-rice) bowls land 1,800 yen; uni-ikura-crab triple bowls 2,800.
Try: Kaisendon
Tip: Walk in early; the queue stretches by 09:00 in summer.
Hokkaido bafun sea urchin (from Rishiri and Rebun islands) heaped over sushi rice. The summer signature of Sapporo's market shops; June through August is the season.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
Hokkaido has fished sea urchin for over a century along its Rishiri and Rebun coastlines off the northern tip of the island. Sapporo's uni-don bowl rose as a market-shop format at Nijo Market and the Curb Market through the 1980s and 1990s; today the city's market kaisendon bowls stack uni, ikura and crab in three-colour configurations. Sushi Miyakawa and Sushiya no Saito use Rishiri bafun uni as the centrepiece of their summer omakase nigiri.
Common allergens: Shellfish, Soy
Tip from the editors. Don't refrigerate uni before serving; warm rice plus cold uni is the textural point of the dish.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
A Nijo Market sushi-and-donburi counter. The cheapest kaisendon (mixed seafood-over-rice) bowls land 1,800 yen; uni-ikura-crab triple bowls 2,800.
Try: Kaisendon
Tip: Walk in early; the queue stretches by 09:00 in summer.
Three Michelin stars in the 2017 Hokkaido guide, the only sushi at that tier in Hokkaido. Seven seats, two seatings (17:00 and 19:30), omakase only.
Order: The omakase: aged tuna progression and Hokkaido uni nigiri are the season-defining courses.
Tip: Reservations open through Tableall the first day of each month for the month two months out; closed Wednesdays.
Ezomae omakase counter since 2000 at the south edge of Susukino. Two course menus, Kiwami and Miyabi, both lean on Hokkaido seafood with light aging.
Order: Kiwami evening omakase with the aged tuna progression and uni-on-rice.
Tip: Book direct through the operator site; counter only, no private rooms.
Chef Hidetaka trained at the Michelin-starred Sushi Zen and opened a quieter eight-seat hinoki counter in Susukino. At Chuo-ku. Booking recommended.
Why locals love it: Eight-seat hinoki counter in Susukino, Sushi Zen alumnus; needs a six-week reservation.
Tip: Counter only; reservations open six weeks ahead. Cash or card accepted.
More cities are in research. Want hokkaido uni-don (sea urchin bowl) covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.