History

Hokkaido has fished sea urchin for over a century along its Rishiri and Rebun coastlines off the northern tip of the island. Sapporo's uni-don bowl rose as a market-shop format at Nijo Market and the Curb Market through the 1980s and 1990s; today the city's market kaisendon bowls stack uni, ikura and crab in three-colour configurations. Sushi Miyakawa and Sushiya no Saito use Rishiri bafun uni as the centrepiece of their summer omakase nigiri.

Common allergens: Shellfish, Soy

Make it at home

Yield Serves 2Hands-on 15 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 2 trays Hokkaido bafun uni, 60-100g each
  • 200g sushi rice
  • 2 tbsp rice vinegar
  • 1 tbsp sugar
  • 1 tsp salt
  • Nori sheets, cut into strips
  • Wasabi
  • Light soy sauce
  • Shiso leaves for garnish

Method

  1. Rinse rice in cold water 4 times until water runs clear. Cook with 220ml water in a rice cooker or covered pot.
  2. While rice is cooking, mix rice vinegar, sugar and salt in a small bowl until dissolved.
  3. When rice is cooked, fan it gently and fold in the seasoned vinegar; rice should be just-warm when serving.
  4. Divide rice between two bowls. Layer half a sheet of nori strips on top.
  5. Carefully arrange uni pieces over the nori, covering as much surface as possible.
  6. Add a small dot of wasabi to the side and a shiso leaf for colour.
  7. Serve immediately with light soy sauce on the side, used sparingly.

Tip from the editors. Don't refrigerate uni before serving; warm rice plus cold uni is the textural point of the dish.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat hokkaido uni-don (sea urchin bowl)

Hokkaido Uni-Don (Sea Urchin Bowl) in Sapporo

Nijo Ichiba Ohiso ★ 4.1

nijo-market

A Nijo Market sushi-and-donburi counter. The cheapest kaisendon (mixed seafood-over-rice) bowls land 1,800 yen; uni-ikura-crab triple bowls 2,800.

Try: Kaisendon

Tip: Walk in early; the queue stretches by 09:00 in summer.

Sushi Miyakawa 3 ★ ★ 4.9

Japanese sushiChef Masaaki Miyakawa¥¥¥¥¥40,000-50,000maruyamaBook 6 weeks ahead

Three Michelin stars in the 2017 Hokkaido guide, the only sushi at that tier in Hokkaido. Seven seats, two seatings (17:00 and 19:30), omakase only.

Order: The omakase: aged tuna progression and Hokkaido uni nigiri are the season-defining courses.

Tip: Reservations open through Tableall the first day of each month for the month two months out; closed Wednesdays.

Sushiya no Saito ★ 4.6

Japanese sushiChef Akira Saito¥¥¥¥¥25,000-35,000susukinoBook 4 weeks ahead

Ezomae omakase counter since 2000 at the south edge of Susukino. Two course menus, Kiwami and Miyabi, both lean on Hokkaido seafood with light aging.

Order: Kiwami evening omakase with the aged tuna progression and uni-on-rice.

Tip: Book direct through the operator site; counter only, no private rooms.

Sushi Hidetaka ★ 4.5

susukino

Chef Hidetaka trained at the Michelin-starred Sushi Zen and opened a quieter eight-seat hinoki counter in Susukino. At Chuo-ku. Booking recommended.

Why locals love it: Eight-seat hinoki counter in Susukino, Sushi Zen alumnus; needs a six-week reservation.

Tip: Counter only; reservations open six weeks ahead. Cash or card accepted.

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