Japanese sushiChef Chef Nishimaki¥¥¥¥¥20,000-30,000susukinoBook 4 weeks ahead
A Susukino omakase counter opened 2012 using nearly all-Hokkaido seafood. Ten seats at a single cypress slab, a short walk from Hosui Susukino subway.
Order: Sushi-only omakase, no small dishes between, the way Saiko prefers it.
Tip: Book through Tableall; reservations open four weeks before the date.
Japanese sushiChef Akira Saito¥¥¥¥¥25,000-35,000susukinoBook 4 weeks ahead
Ezomae omakase counter since 2000 at the south edge of Susukino. Two course menus, Kiwami and Miyabi, both lean on Hokkaido seafood with light aging.
Order: Kiwami evening omakase with the aged tuna progression and uni-on-rice.
Tip: Book direct through the operator site; counter only, no private rooms.
nijo-market
A Nijo Market sushi-and-donburi counter. The cheapest kaisendon (mixed seafood-over-rice) bowls land 1,800 yen; uni-ikura-crab triple bowls 2,800.
Try: Kaisendon
Tip: Walk in early; the queue stretches by 09:00 in summer.
Japanese sushiChef Masaaki Miyakawa¥¥¥¥¥40,000-50,000maruyamaBook 6 weeks ahead
Three Michelin stars in the 2017 Hokkaido guide, the only sushi at that tier in Hokkaido. Seven seats, two seatings (17:00 and 19:30), omakase only.
Order: The omakase: aged tuna progression and Hokkaido uni nigiri are the season-defining courses.
Tip: Reservations open through Tableall the first day of each month for the month two months out; closed Wednesdays.