Heaven and earth: mashed potato (earth) with unsweetened apple puree (heaven) and blood sausage or fried liver and onions. A Rhenish classic eaten in Cologne since at least the 18th century.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
Himmel un Ääd combines root vegetables from underground with fruit from the tree, the dialect name 'sky and earth' capturing the contrast. The dish entered Cologne kitchens during the 18th century when apples were a year-round Rhenish staple and potatoes had settled into the regional diet. The pairing with Blutwurst (blood sausage) became canonical in the 19th century working-class Brauhäuser. Lommerzheim, Haus Töller and Brauhaus Pütz still serve it on every winter menu.
Common allergens: Dairy
Tip from the editors. The apples should taste of nothing but apple; no sugar. The savoury balance with the mash and Blutwurst depends on the apple staying tart.
Haus Töller on Weyerstrasse in Cologne occupies a 14th-century building and serves Sauerbraten, Halve Hahn and pork knuckle in a genuinely historic Altstadt.
Order: Rheinischer Sauerbraten with Rübenkraut and potato dumplings, the canonical Cologne home dish
Tip: Evenings only, Monday to Saturday; closed Sundays. Cash preferred. Arrive early or you risk not getting a table.
Lommerzheim in Cologne-Deutz has served the city's most argued-over pork chop since 1959; cash only, closed Sundays, unchanged since Mick Jagger ate there.
Why locals love it: On the Deutz east bank away from the tourist centre; no concessions to comfort or modernity.
Brauhaus Pütz in Cologne's Südstadt is a neighbourhood Brauhaus on Engelbertstrasse serving Kölsch, Halve Hahn and Rhenish classics in a traditional room.
Order: Bratwurst with Senf and Rievkooche on the side for the classic Kölsch starter plate
Tip: A residential neighbourhood Brauhaus without Cathedral-area tourist pricing. Good for a relaxed midweek lunch.
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