Olde Hansa ★ 4.4
Olde Hansa on Vana turg runs the medieval Hanseatic feast in candlelight until midnight every night, with live hurdy-gurdy and bagpipe music Wed to Sat.
Try: Medieval Hanseatic feast with live music
History
Hapukapsas grew from Northern European fermentation traditions absorbed during the Hanseatic and Russian Empire periods, when winter vegetable storage was a survival skill. Estonian farmers fermented entire cabbages in wooden barrels with salt, caraway and juniper, then ladled the cured slaw onto every winter plate. The Estonian Christmas Eve dinner is built around hapukapsas piled next to verivorst, with stewed pork and lingonberry jam.
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 1 large white cabbage (1.5kg), finely shredded
- 1 large carrot, grated
- 30g sea salt (about 2% of cabbage weight)
- 1 tablespoon caraway seeds
- 5 juniper berries, crushed
- 2 bay leaves
Method
- Combine cabbage, carrot and salt in a large bowl. Massage and squeeze for 5 to 10 minutes until liquid releases.
- Add caraway, juniper and bay leaves.
- Pack tightly into a large clean jar, pressing down so the liquid covers the cabbage.
- Cover with a weight (a small jar of water works), then cover with a cloth.
- Ferment at cool room temperature 7 to 14 days until pleasantly sour, then refrigerate.
Tip from the editors. The cabbage must stay under the brine; any pieces above the liquid line will go off.
Where to eat hapukapsas
Hapukapsas in Tallinn
Rataskaevu 16 ★ 4.8
Rataskaevu 16 is the Old Town's mid-priced Estonian comfort-food room, with braised elk, beef tenderloin and chef's choice white fish on a dietary menu.
Signature: Braised elk roast, Beef tenderloin
Order: Braised elk roast with potato and beetroot gratin (€28.60); add the Estonian cheese platter.
Tip: Book a week ahead in summer. Sister room Väike Rataskaevu at Niguliste 6 takes the overflow with a smaller menu.
III Draakon ★ 4.3
III Draakon under the Town Hall serves elk soup, pirukad pastries and house beer for a few euros each in a medieval-themed candle-lit cellar.
Try: Elk soup and savoury pirukad
More cities are in research. Want hapukapsas covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.