History

Cape Town's fish and chip counter is a Greek and Portuguese inheritance, built through the twentieth century by families who ran the city's milk bars and fish shops, which is why a Cape Town fish shop still sells calamari beside the chips. Slap, from the Afrikaans for limp, is the point: the chips are fried once, kept soft and doused in white vinegar, not crisped. Hake is the everyday fish because the Cape trawl fishery lands it year round, while snoek and yellowtail are seasonal. Kalk Bay and Hout Bay harbours sell it a few metres from where the boats tie up.

Common allergens: Fish, Gluten, Egg

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 4 hake fillets, about 180g each, skinned
  • 1kg floury potatoes, cut into thick 1.5cm chips
  • 200g cake flour, plus 50g for dusting
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 300ml very cold lager
  • 1 tsp salt in the batter, plus coarse salt to finish
  • White spirit vinegar
  • Sunflower oil for deep-frying, about 2L
  • Lemon wedges

Method

  1. Rinse the chips in cold water, drain and dry them thoroughly on a cloth.
  2. Fry the chips in 150C oil for 7 minutes until cooked through and still pale. Lift out and keep them soft: do not fry them a second time.
  3. Whisk the 200g flour, baking powder and salt with the cold lager to a batter the thickness of cream. Rest it 10 minutes.
  4. Raise the oil to 180C. Pat the hake dry, dust it in the extra flour, then dip in the batter and let the excess run off.
  5. Fry two fillets at a time for 5 to 6 minutes until the batter is deep gold and rigid. Drain on a rack, not paper.
  6. Pile the chips on paper, salt them and shake vinegar over generously, lay the fish alongside and serve with lemon.

Tip from the editors. Skip the second fry on the chips: slap chips are meant to be soft and vinegary, and crisping them turns this into a different dish.

Where to eat hake and slap chips

Hake and slap chips in Cape Town

Kalky's ★ 4.3

$ SeafoodKalk Bay

Kalky's is a cash only fish counter on the Kalk Bay harbour wall near Cape Town, where the snoek comes straight off the boats tied up outside.

Why locals goVisitors driving the coast road pass Kalk Bay's fishing harbour by, and the self-service queue at this cabin fills with locals, especially at weekends.

TipCarry small notes since the till only takes cash, and eat standing at the harbour wall rather than hunting for a table.

Snoekies ★ 4.3

$$ SeafoodHout Bay

Snoekies is a fish and chips takeaway at the far end of Hout Bay harbour near Cape Town, where the brand began in a converted bus parked there in 1951.

Why locals goIt sits at the far end of Harbour Road, past the point on the Hout Bay waterfront where most visitors turn back, on the spot where its founder parked a converted bus in 1951.

TipHead upstairs if you have children: the Hout Bay branch has a big indoor play area with a jungle gym and sandpit beside the dining room.

Fish on the Rocks ★ 4.3

$ SeafoodHout Bay

Fish on the Rocks fries hake and chips for R120 at the far end of Hout Bay harbour, on the edge of the Atlantic under Chapmans Peak in Cape Town.

TryBattered hake and chips from the harbour-end counter

TipHake or snoek on its own is R110, so skip the chips if you are sharing a portion; the seals and seagulls come free.

Plumstead Fisheries ★ 3.9

$ SeafoodPlumstead

Plumstead Fisheries fries fish and chips on Main Road in Plumstead, a southern suburb of Cape Town well away from the coastal harbour counters.

Why locals goSouthern suburbs regulars queue here straight after work instead of driving to the coast, since the fryer turns out the same fish and chips without the trip to Kalk Bay.

TipAsk what came in fresh that morning before ordering, since the counter also sells whole fish to take home and cook.

The Lighthouse Cafe ★ 3.9

$$ CafeSimon's Town

The Lighthouse Cafe is a pavement style eatery on St George's Street in Simon's Town, Cape Town, serving coastal breakfasts and fish and chips.

DrinkCappuccino

TipTake a pavement table and order the beer-battered fish and chips, made to Jamie Oliver's recipe, for lunch.

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