Grilled octopus (Htapodi sti skara)
Photo: T.Tseng · CC BY 2.0

History

Greek fishermen have been pounding octopus on coastal rocks to soften the connective tissue for millennia; the Aegean diet documented by Homer included it. Athens absorbed the dish through Aegean and Cycladic migrant tavernas in the 20th century; today every fish taverna in Athens, from Atlantikos in Psyrri to the Piraeus harbourside, serves it as the signature seafood meze. The proper preparation involves boiling the octopus first to tenderise (often in wine or with the cork from a wine bottle, the home tradition), then grilling to char.

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Common allergens: Shellfish

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 2 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1 whole octopus, 1.5 to 2kg (cleaned and tenderised by your fishmonger)
  • 1 cork from a wine bottle (Greek home tradition; folk-belief tenderiser)
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 small onion halved
  • 10 black peppercorns
  • 200ml dry white wine
  • 100ml extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 tsp dried Greek oregano (rigani)
  • 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • Sea salt and black pepper
  • To serve: 1 small red onion thinly sliced
  • 2 tbsp capers (rinsed)
  • 1 lemon quartered
  • small bunch flat-leaf parsley

Method

  1. Bring a large pot of unsalted water to a simmer with bay leaves, onion, peppercorns and white wine. Drop the cork in too.
  2. Take the cleaned octopus by the head and dip the tentacles into the simmering water 3 times in quick succession (this curls the tentacles for presentation).
  3. Lower the octopus fully into the pot. Simmer gently for 50 to 60 minutes; a skewer should slide through the thickest part with no resistance.
  4. Lift out the octopus. Cool slightly.
  5. Cut the tentacles away from the body; the body can be sliced into rings.
  6. Whisk olive oil, half the oregano, vinegar, salt and pepper in a bowl. Toss the warm octopus pieces in the marinade for 10 minutes.
  7. Heat a charcoal grill or a heavy ridged grill pan to very hot.
  8. Grill the tentacles 2 to 3 minutes per side until well charred and slightly crisp at the suckers.
  9. Slide onto a plate. Drizzle with extra olive oil. Scatter remaining oregano, red onion, capers, parsley.
  10. Serve with lemon wedges, crusty bread, and a glass of chilled ouzo or assyrtiko.

Tip from the editors. The cork is a Greek home tradition for tenderising; restaurants skip it but boil first then grill. Never grill octopus raw or you'll get rubber bands.

Where to eat grilled octopus (htapodi sti skara)

Grilled octopus (Htapodi sti skara) in Athens

Atlantikos ★ 4.4

€€ SeafoodPsyrriUntil Daily until 01:00

Atlantikos in Psyrri Athens is the late-night seafood pick on Avliton 7, the small dining room and annex where the daily catch goes on grill until 01:00.

OrderThe grilled octopus, sea bream carpaccio and a chilled assyrtiko by the glass.

TipThe annex across the lane opens at 18:00 weekdays; book the original room.

Directions

Manimani ★ 4.4

€€ Mani Peninsula GreekKoukaki

Manimani in Koukaki cooks the food of the Mani peninsula in a neoclassical building near the Acropolis Museum in Athens: cured pork siglino and handmade.

OrderThe siglino with handmade pasta and a half-litre of the rosé from the Peloponnese.

TipClosed Mondays. Sunday lunch from 14:00 is the easiest service to find a window seat.

Directions Book

Mavro Provato ★ 4.7

€€ MezedopoleioPangrati

Mavro Provato in Pangrati Athens is the daily mezedopoleio favourite for small-plate Greek cooking, Greek wine by the glass and a sidewalk of regulars.

OrderThe smoked aubergine, the saganaki and a half-litre carafe of house white.

TipBook three days ahead for dinner; lunch tables on the pavement are walk-up after 14:00.

Directions

Karavitis Tavern ★ 4.5

€€ GreekPangrati

Karavitis Tavern on Pausaniou in Pangrati is the 1926 neighbourhood taverna with a rustic courtyard, barrels of house wine and a point-at-trays system.

Why locals goPangrati neighbourhood taverna since 1926 with a rustic courtyard, barrels of house wine, and an order-by-pointing system that keeps the tourist trade away.

TipNo reservations are taken; arrive before 21:00 on weeknights and before 20:30 on Saturdays.

Directions

Taverna tou Oikonomou ★ 4.7

€€ GreekPetralona

Taverna tou Oikonomou is a greek room in Petralona. No microwave and no menu; you point at the trays. Closes when the pans run out, often by 22:00.

Why locals goPetralona mageirio that has cooked from the same pans since 1930, far from the centre, with locals at every table and no menu offered.

TipNo microwave and no menu; you point at the trays. Closes when the pans run out, often by 22:00.

Directions

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