History

Gravlaks (literally buried salmon) descends from a medieval Nordic preservation method of fermenting salmon under stones with salt; the modern fresh dill-and-sugar cure that defines it today dates to the late 19th century, when refrigeration removed the need for fermentation. The Norwegian version uses sea-farmed Atlantic salmon, cured 48 to 72 hours. Lofoten Fiskerestaurant, Solsiden and Theatercaféen carry the canonical Oslo version with hovmastersaus, sweet mustard-and-dill, on rye crispbread.

Common allergens: Fish, Mustard

Make it at home

Yield 8Hands-on 20 minTotal PT2DDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 1kg side of skin-on Norwegian salmon, scaled and pin-boned
  • 75g coarse sea salt
  • 75g caster sugar
  • 1 tbsp coarsely cracked white peppercorns
  • 1 large bunch fresh dill, roughly chopped (about 60g)
  • 2 tbsp aquavit (optional)
  • Lemon zest from 1 unwaxed lemon
  • 3 tbsp Dijon mustard (for the sauce)
  • 1 tbsp coarse mustard (for the sauce)
  • 2 tbsp caster sugar (for the sauce)
  • 2 tbsp white wine vinegar (for the sauce)
  • 150ml neutral oil (for the sauce)
  • 3 tbsp finely chopped dill (for the sauce)

Method

  1. Place the salmon skin-side down on a sheet of cling film large enough to wrap it. Check for any pin bones with tweezers.
  2. Mix the salt, sugar, white pepper and lemon zest. Spread evenly over the flesh. Sprinkle over the aquavit if using.
  3. Pack the chopped dill thickly over the cure so the flesh is hidden.
  4. Wrap tightly in two layers of cling film, place in a deep tray and weight with a board or another tray topped with a few tins.
  5. Refrigerate for 48 hours, turning the parcel every 12 hours. Liquid will pool; do not drain.
  6. After curing, unwrap, scrape off the cure and pat dry. Slice paper-thin on a 45-degree angle, leaving the skin behind.
  7. For the sauce, whisk both mustards, sugar and vinegar. Drizzle in the oil whisking constantly to emulsify, then fold in the chopped dill.
  8. Serve the gravlaks with the mustard sauce, rye crispbread or rye bread, lemon wedges and extra dill fronds.

Tip from the editors. Use very fresh salmon from a fishmonger who knows it is for curing; the fillet keeps four days cured. Freeze the unsliced piece for longer storage.

Where to eat gravlaks

Gravlaks in Oslo

Lofoten Fiskerestaurant ★ 4.3

Norwegian Seafood$$$aker-bryggeMon-Fri 11:00-23:00, Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00

Lofoten Fiskerestaurant at the tip of Aker Brygge on Stranden serves Norwegian fish and shellfish through a menu that changes four times a year.

Signature: Plateau des fruits de mer, Norwegian halibut and king crab

Order: Plateau des Fruits de Mer with crab, mussels, prawn and lobster.

Tip: Sunset tables on the south terrace book first; off-season Sundays have the easier seating.

Solsiden Restaurant ★ 4.5

Norwegian Seafood$$$$kvadraturenDaily 15:00-22:00

Solsiden on Akershusstranda below Akershus Fortress runs a May-to-September seafood-only kitchen, with the Plateau des Fruits de Mer as the room's signature.

Signature: Plateau des fruits de mer, Whole grilled Norwegian fish

Order: Plateau des Fruits de Mer with crayfish in season.

Tip: Open May to September only; the sunset west tables sell first.

Theatercaféen ★ 4.7

Modern European$$$sentrumMon-Sat 11:00-23:00, Sun 16:00-22:00

Theatercaféen on Stortingsgata is the 1900 art-nouveau brasserie opposite Nationaltheatret, in the same family for four generations, with a portrait gallery.

Signature: Norwegian smorbrod, Plateau of seasonal fish

Order: Smorbrod at lunch with a glass of Norwegian aquavit.

Tip: Lunch service has the easiest seats; the room books out at dinner around theatre programming.

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