Sushi Kashiba ★ 4.7
Sushi Kashiba in Seattle's Pike Place is Shiro Kashiba's omakase counter: the chef who opened Seattle's first sushi bar in 1970, still running the pass at 86 Pine.
History
Geoduck is the world's largest burrowing clam, native to the tidal flats of Puget Sound, Hood Canal and British Columbia. The Coast Salish dug it at low tide for millennia. The first state commercial harvest opened in 1970, sold to Japan and Hong Kong where the siphon is prized for raw and hot-pot cookery; the Washington fishery is now worth $80 million a year, with strict quotas managed by the state and the tribes. The clam can live 165 years and weighs 1 to 3 kilograms. In Seattle, sushi bars like Maneki and Sushi Kashiba slice the siphon paper-thin for nigiri called mirugai. Pike Place fishmongers display them whole in ice tanks for the photo opportunity; the body meat goes into chowder and the siphon into sashimi.
Common allergens: Shellfish
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 1 live geoduck, 1 to 1.5 kg, sourced from a Washington fishmonger
- Boiling water
- Iced water with sea salt
- Light soy sauce
- Wasabi paste
- Fresh shiso leaves
- Sushi rice and toasted nori, optional
Method
- Hold the geoduck siphon-up. Pour the boiling water over the siphon and shell for 10 seconds, then plunge into the iced salt water.
- Peel off the outer brown skin from the siphon; it slips off easily after the blanch. Discard.
- Slide a thin paring knife between the shell and the body. Lift the body free from both halves of the shell.
- Separate the siphon from the belly. The siphon is the sashimi cut; the belly meat is for chowder or stir-fry.
- Rinse the siphon under cold water. Slice on the bias as thin as you can manage, about 2mm.
- Arrange the slices on shiso leaves over crushed ice. Serve with soy, wasabi and rice if you want nigiri.
Tip from the editors. Geoduck flesh firms within two hours of being shucked. Buy it live, prep it in the next hour, eat it within four. The crunch is the entire point.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Where to eat geoduck
Geoduck in Seattle
Maneki ★ 4.5
Maneki in Seattle's International District is the oldest Japanese restaurant on the West Coast: opened in 1904, surviving wartime internment, tatami rooms still running.
Signature: Nigiri set, Geoduck sashimi, Sukiyaki
Order: The geoduck sashimi if it is on the board, otherwise the chef's nigiri set with a tatami room.
Tip: Reserve a tatami room four to six weeks ahead; the bar runs walk-in but the room shapes the meal.
Taylor Shellfish Oyster Bar Pioneer Square ★ 4.5
Taylor Shellfish Oyster Bar in Seattle's Pioneer Square is the on-counter outpost of the 135-year Samish Bay farm: half-shells, geoduck crudo, manila clams, all from one supplier.
Signature: Half-shell oysters, Geoduck crudo, Manila clams
Order: A dozen Olympias and Kumamotos from the farm, with a glass of grower's Champagne.
Tip: Happy hour 16:00 to 17:00 drops the oysters to $1.75 each; the Occidental location is the largest and quietest of the three.
More cities are in research. Want geoduck covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.