Gelato Fiorentino

Method

1. Bring milk, cream, vanilla pods and seeds, and bergamot zest to a bare simmer in a heavy pan. Remove from heat and infuse 20 minutes.
2. Whisk egg yolks, sugar, salt, and powdered milk if using until pale and thick, about 3 minutes.
3. Strain the infused milk-cream through a fine sieve into a jug to remove zest and pod husks.
4. Pour the warm infused dairy slowly into the yolk mix in a steady stream, whisking constantly.
5. Return the custard to the pan and cook over the lowest heat, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon, until the mix coats the back of the spoon and reads 82C to 84C on a thermometer. Do not boil.
6. Strain into a clean bowl set in an ice bath. Stir occasionally until cool.
7. Cover and refrigerate at least 12 hours; this slow ageing develops the proper buontalenti flavour and is non-negotiable.
8. Churn in an ice cream machine until thick and creamy, about 25 minutes.
9. Transfer to a freezer-safe container, smooth the surface, press parchment directly onto the gelato. Freeze 3 hours minimum.
10. Serve at minus 12C, not the colder minus 18C of industrial ice cream; this is what gives true gelato its signature creamy plasticity.