Ganses are the Nicois Carnaval pastry, fried strips of citrus scented dough dusted with sugar that appear at bakeries across Nice through February for the Carnaval de Nice.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
Ganses are the Nicois variation on the Italian Carnival chiacchere and the French bugnes, fried sweet dough that appears for Carnaval de Nice every February. The Cuisine Nissarde label specifies orange blossom water and a knot or strip shape, with icing sugar dusted at service. Maison Auer and Patisseries LAC are the canonical winter addresses.
Common allergens: Gluten, Egg
Tip from the editors. The oil must be hot enough; ganses fried in cool oil absorb the fat and read greasy rather than crisp.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Maison Auer on Rue Saint Francois de Paule has sold candied fruits and chocolates in Nice since 1820, two centuries under the Auer family and from 2024 the Dolfi family as guardians of the recipes.
Worth the queue: Candied chestnuts and mendiants
Patisseries LAC on Rue Barla in Nice runs Pascal Lac's pastry and chocolate take away counter at EUR 4-8 a piece, the value alternative to the seated tearoom in the Carre d'Or district.
Try: Pastry counter take away
Henri Auer is the historic confectionery name of Maison Auer on Rue Saint Francois de Paule, two centuries of mendiants, glaceed chestnuts and the city's most enduring chocolate counter.
Worth the queue: Glaceed chestnut (marrons glaces)
Mama Baker on Rue de Lepante runs the Carre d'Or weekend brunch alternative to the Cours Saleya rooms, organic levain sourdough, viennoiseries and espresso under EUR 18 a plate.
Order: Sourdough toast with eggs and avocado
More cities are in research. Want ganses covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.