History

Gallinejas (fried lamb intestine) and entresijos (fried lamb-belly fat) emerged in the 19th-century working-class taberna scene of Lavapies and Embajadores, where the cheapest cuts of lamb were turned into a hot cheap eat for the working day. The dish was canonized at the centenary freidurias of Embajadores. The trick is in the cleaning and parboiling: the intestine must be soaked in vinegar, scrubbed and parboiled multiple times before frying. The dish became less common in the 1980s as cheap meat cuts dropped in price, but the few remaining counters still serve it as Madrid's most authentic working-quarter offal experience.

Common allergens: None typical

Make it at home

Yield 2Hands-on 15 minTotal 2 hrDifficulty Advanced

Ingredients

  • 300g lamb intestine (pre-cleaned by butcher)
  • 200g lamb belly fat (pre-cut)
  • 100ml white wine vinegar
  • 500ml sunflower oil for frying
  • 300g floury potatoes, sliced thick
  • Sea salt, generous

Method

  1. Soak the lamb intestine in cold water with vinegar for 1 hour. Scrub well. Rinse repeatedly until clear.
  2. Parboil in fresh cold water for 30 minutes. Drain.
  3. Pat the intestine and belly fat completely dry with paper towel.
  4. Heat the oil in a deep pan to 180C.
  5. Fry the potatoes for 8 minutes until golden. Drain. Salt.
  6. Fry the intestine in small batches for 4 to 5 minutes until very crisp and curled. Drain on paper towel. Salt.
  7. Fry the belly fat last for 3 minutes until very crisp. Drain on paper towel. Salt.
  8. Serve hot on a warm platter with the patatas, an extra pinch of salt and a cana of cold lager.

Tip from the editors. The cleaning and parboiling are essential; without them the offal carries a strong aroma. Ask your butcher for pre-cleaned lamb intestine where possible.

Where to eat gallinejas y entresijos

Gallinejas y entresijos in Madrid

Bar El Jamon ★ 4.2

Spanish tapas€lavapiesTue-Sun 13:00-02:00; Mon closed

Bar El Jamon in Madrid's Lavapies-adjacent Chamberi runs the working-quarter offal canon, with bocadillos de gallinejas under 6 euros, a racion of entresijos.

Try: Bocadillo de gallinejas

Tip: Walk-in only. Cash preferred. The bocadillo de gallinejas runs 5 to 6 euros; entresijos racion 8.

Calle de Fernando el Catolico 31, 28015 Madrid

Casa Toni ★ 4.2

Spanish tapas€centroMon-Thu,Sun 12:00-16:30, 19:00-00:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-16:30, 19:00-01:30

Casa Toni near Sol in Madrid serves the offal canon at counter prices: oreja a la plancha 6 euros, callos 8, cana 2.50; the whole working-day lunch runs.

Try: Callos, oreja, cana

Tip: Cash only. Walk-in only at the standing-room bar. Closed Wednesdays. The bar is full by 13:00.

Calle de la Cruz 14, 28012 Madrid

Casa Amadeo Los Caracoles ★ 4.4

Spanish€lavapiesDaily 10:00-00:00

Casa Amadeo Los Caracoles on Plaza Cascorro in Madrid's Lavapies has cooked the caracoles in spicy chorizo broth since 1942, a racion serves two for 12 euros.

Try: Caracoles a la madrilena

Tip: Walk-in only Sundays during the rastro market. Cash preferred. Closed Mondays. Sundays 12:00-16:00 is the local hour.

Plaza de Cascorro 18, 28005 Madrid

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