Lagoon fish, fritolin tradition€€santa-croce
Osteria Vecio Fritolin in Venice's Santa Croce since the 19th century is the modern continuation of the historic fritolin (fried-fish kiosk), now with a sit-down room.
Signature: Cartoccio di fritto misto, Sarde in saor, Spaghetti alle vongole
Order: Cartoccio di pesce fritto from the takeaway window, then the bigoli in salsa inside.
Tip: Closed Mon-Tue. Lunch set at EUR 35 includes wine. Walk-in for the cartoccio window; book the dining room.
Trattoria alla Madonna near Rialto in San Polo is the 1954 lunchroom with two-course Venetian set meals at EUR 18, the canonical mid-budget classic fish trattoria.
Try: Bigoli in salsa with fritto misto
Tip: Walk-in only. Arrive 12:00 for lunch or 19:30 for dinner. Closed Wednesdays.
Venetian seafood€€€san-polo
Antiche Carampane in Venice's San Polo is the 1983 family-run seafood trattoria the Rialto fishmongers send friends to, the room with the no-tourist-menu sign on the door.
Signature: Spaghetti with lagoon clams, Fritto misto, Sarde in saor
Order: Spaghetti with vongole, fritto misto della laguna, sarde in saor.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead. Closed Sundays and Mondays. The dining room has 10 tables, so flexibility on date is more useful than time.
Venetian seafood trattoria€€€castello
Trattoria Corte Sconta in Venice's Castello is the courtyard seafood room that locals and chefs in town quietly book first, the canonical hidden-courtyard fish trattoria.
Signature: Antipasto misto di pesce crudo, Spaghetti with clams, Granseola
Order: Antipasto misto, spaghetti vongole, granseola when in season.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead. The pergola courtyard is the seat to ask for in summer. Closed Sundays and Mondays.
Burano lagoon-fish trattoria€€€lagoon-islands
Trattoria al Gatto Nero on Burano is the 1965 Bovo family room now run by Massimiliano Bovo, the canonical lagoon-fish lunch on the colourful fishing island.
Signature: Risotto di go, Bigoli with cuttlefish, Mixed grilled fish
Order: Risotto di go, bigoli al nero di seppia, the mixed grilled fish.
Tip: Book two weeks ahead. Ferry 12 from Fondamente Nove takes 45 minutes. Closed Mondays.