Terkenlis 1948 ★ 4.4
Terkenlis has run from this Tsimiski and Aristotelous corner since 1948, producing the tsoureki that became synonymous with Thessaloniki across Greece.
History
Ekmek kataifi entered Thessaloniki's pastry shops via the Ottoman bakery tradition and was preserved by Greek Orthodox zacharoplasteia after 1912. The multiple-textured format with crisp pastry base, syrup-soaked layer, cold custard middle, and cream top requires more skill than any other Greek pastry.
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 450g kataifi pastry, defrosted and gently teased apart
- 200g unsalted butter, melted
- 500g caster sugar (for syrup)
- 400ml water (for syrup)
- 1 strip lemon peel
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- 1 litre whole milk (for custard)
- 200g caster sugar (for custard)
- 6 egg yolks
- 70g cornflour
- 1 tbsp vanilla extract
- 50g unsalted butter, cold (for custard)
- 500ml double cream
- 2 tbsp icing sugar
- 1 tsp ground cinnamon, to finish
- 100g finely chopped pistachios, to finish
Method
- Heat the oven to 180C. Lightly grease a 30 by 22cm baking tin.
- Spread the kataifi in the tin, drizzle with all the melted butter and toss to coat. Press into an even layer.
- Bake for 25 to 30 minutes until deep golden and crisp throughout. Cool 15 minutes.
- For the syrup, simmer the 500g sugar, 400ml water, lemon peel and cinnamon for 8 minutes until lightly thickened. Stir in the lemon juice, take off the heat.
- Pour the hot syrup slowly and evenly over the warm kataifi. Let it absorb for 30 minutes.
- For the custard, whisk yolks, 200g sugar and cornflour. Warm the milk and pour over the eggs whisking constantly. Return to the pan and cook over low heat, whisking, until thick and bubbling. Off the heat, beat in the cold butter and vanilla.
- Pour the hot custard over the syrup-soaked kataifi, smooth the top, and cover with cling film touching the surface. Refrigerate at least 3 hours, ideally overnight.
- Whip the cream with icing sugar to medium peaks. Spread thickly over the cold custard.
- Dust with cinnamon and scatter with chopped pistachios. Cut into squares with a wet hot knife.
Tip from the editors. Kataifi pastry dries out fast; cover what you are not using with a slightly damp tea towel. The syrup must be hot poured over warm kataifi for the right absorption.
Where to eat ekmek kataifi
Ekmek Kataifi in Thessaloniki
Charalampos Patisserie ★ 4.1
A Panorama institution for morning coffee and afternoon trigona with a view of the Thermaikos Gulf below. At Venizelou 26. Booking recommended.
Floros ★ 3.9
Floros on Mitropoleos is a neighbourhood-baker format serving the pedestrian zone: koulouri, cheese pie, spinach pie, and standard Greek pastries from 06:30.
Trigona Elenidis Centre ★ 4.6
The trigona panoramatos at the Elenidis Centre branch for under 3.50 euros. The city's most landmark pastry at its best for the price of a coffee. Order two.
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