Éclair au chocolat
Photo: Nikchick · CC BY-SA 2.0

History

The éclair entered Parisian pâtisseries in the 1860s; the name (lightning) refers to the speed with which it is eaten. The choux-and-fondant form is often traced to Antonin Carême's early-19th-century pastry workshop. Stohrer (founded 1730, the city's oldest pâtisserie) and the postwar Parisian houses canonised the format. The contemporary éclair revival came via Christophe Adam's L'Éclair de Génie opening in 2012, which sparked a city-wide flavour-of-the-month treatment; Cédric Grolet at Opéra plates a chocolate éclair stripped back to two ingredients. Des Gâteaux et du Pain (Claire Damon) runs a refined classic.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 12Hands-on 1 hrTotal 3 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • For the choux: 125ml water
  • 125ml whole milk
  • 100g unsalted butter
  • 5g salt
  • 5g caster sugar
  • 150g plain flour (sifted)
  • 4 large eggs
  • For the chocolate crème pâtissière: 500ml whole milk
  • 1 vanilla pod (split)
  • 5 large egg yolks
  • 100g caster sugar
  • 40g cornflour
  • 150g dark chocolate (70%, finely chopped)
  • 30g unsalted butter
  • For the chocolate fondant: 200g icing sugar, 30g cocoa powder, 20g glucose syrup, 60ml warm water

Method

  1. Make the crème pâtissière first: bring milk and split vanilla pod to a bare simmer. Take off the heat; infuse 10 minutes; remove the pod.
  2. Whisk egg yolks, sugar and cornflour to a pale paste. Pour the warm vanilla milk over the yolks, whisking constantly.
  3. Return the mixture to the saucepan; cook over medium heat, whisking, for 3 to 4 minutes until thick and bubbling. Take off the heat. Whisk in the chopped chocolate and butter until glossy and smooth.
  4. Press cling film directly onto the surface and chill at least 2 hours.
  5. Make the choux: heat oven to 200°C; line two baking sheets with parchment.
  6. Bring water, milk, butter, salt and sugar to a rolling boil in a heavy saucepan. Tip in the sifted flour all at once; stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until a smooth ball forms and leaves a film on the bottom of the pan, 2 minutes.
  7. Transfer the dough to a stand mixer with paddle attachment. Beat for 1 minute to cool. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each. The batter should be glossy and form a slow-falling ribbon.
  8. Pipe 12cm logs onto the lined sheets using a star nozzle (the ridges help the éclairs rise straight). Space well apart.
  9. Bake at 200°C for 10 minutes, then drop to 180°C for another 20 minutes. Do not open the oven for the first 25 minutes or the choux collapses.
  10. Cool the choux shells completely on a rack. Make three small holes in the underside with a chopstick.
  11. Transfer the chilled crème pâtissière to a piping bag with a small plain nozzle. Pipe into each éclair through the three holes until heavy and full.
  12. Make the fondant: whisk icing sugar, cocoa, glucose and warm water to a thick glossy glaze. The glaze should coat the back of a spoon.
  13. Dip the top of each filled éclair into the warm fondant; let any excess drip off. Set on a rack.
  14. Chill 30 minutes to set the fondant. Eat the same day.

Tip from the editors. Bake the choux long enough to dry inside or they collapse cool. Fondant is right when it coats but does not flood; thin with warm water if it sets too fast.

Where to eat éclair au chocolat

Éclair au chocolat in Paris

Stohrer ★ 4.4

€ BakeryHistoric patisserieWalk-in only

Stohrer in Paris is the city's oldest patisserie, founded in 1730 by Nicolas Stohrer who served Marie Leszczyńska at Versailles. Open daily 07:30-20:30.

Worth the queueBaba au rhum

TipThe original puits d'amour and the baba travel well. The whipped-cream cake is best in shop.

Directions

Cédric Grolet Opéra ★ 4.5

€ BakerySculpted pastryWalk-in only

Cédric Grolet Opéra in Paris is the chef's lemon-fruit-and-flowers museum: every cake a sculpted trompe-l'œil fruit, priced at €18 to €25 a piece.

Worth the queueTrompe-l'œil fruit

TipQueue starts at 11:30 for the 12:00 opening; book online to skip it for the citron tart.

Directions

Des Gâteaux et du Pain ★ 4.6

€ BakeryPastryWalk-in only

Claire Damon's Des Gâteaux et du Pain in Paris's 15e is the pastry-architect shop where every tart is signed off as a numbered edition, on display.

Worth the queueLe Mont-Blanc

TipClosed Monday. The Mont-Blanc is autumn-only; the strawberry tart anchors the summer carte.

Directions

Boulangerie Pâtisserie l'Équilibre ★ 4.4

€ BakerySourdough breads and palace-trained viennoiserieWalk-in only

Boulangerie Pâtisserie l'Équilibre in Paris's 15e occupies an 1889 Monument Historique storefront on rue Blomet. At 108 Rue Blomet. Booking recommended.

Worth the queuePain Suisse

TipClosed Sunday and Monday. The Pain Suisse with its puff-pastry layers is the room's signature, baked through the morning.

Directions

Liberté Pâtisserie Boulangerie ★ 4.3

€ BakeryModern French pastryWalk-in only

Liberté Pâtisserie Boulangerie in Paris's 10e is Benoît Castel's open-kitchen counter where the bakery floor doubles as the eat-in dining room from 09:00.

Worth the queueParis-Brest

TipThe Paris-Brest individual size is €6; the cake-by-the-slice in the back room runs half that price.

Directions

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