Greek stuffed vine leaves filled with rice, onion, fresh herbs and pine nuts, simmered slowly in lemon and olive oil. Served warm or at room temperature as a meze.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
Dolmades have been on Greek and Ottoman tables since the medieval period, with the rice-and-herb (yalantzi) version distinguished from the meat-stuffed version. Athens tavernas serve both; the yalantzi version is the Lenten-friendly mezze that anchors every mezedopoleio in the city. Tzitzikas kai Mermigas, Mavro Provato and the neighborhood tavernas of Pangrati all plate the canonical version, served warm with lemon and a drizzle of olive oil.
Tip from the editors. Roll the dolmades tightly; loose rolls fall apart in the pot. The weight on top during cooking prevents the dolmades floating and unwrapping.
Tzitzikas kai Mermigas on Mitropoleos in Athens has cooked Greek small plates with seasonal ingredients off Syntagma Square for three decades.
Signature: Keftedakia, Kayianas allios, Greek salad
Order: The keftedakia and the kayianas allios with a glass of the house assyrtiko.
Tip: Lunch from 13:00 is the easier seating; book three days ahead for Friday and Saturday dinner.
Mavro Provato in Pangrati Athens is the daily mezedopoleio favourite for small-plate Greek cooking, Greek wine by the glass and a sidewalk of regulars.
Signature: Saganaki, Smoked aubergine, Pork tenderloin with prunes
Order: The smoked aubergine, the saganaki and a half-litre carafe of house white.
Tip: Book three days ahead for dinner; lunch tables on the pavement are walk-up after 14:00.
Karavitis Tavern on Pausaniou in Pangrati is the 1926 neighbourhood taverna with a rustic courtyard, barrels of house wine and a point-at-trays system.
Why locals love it: Pangrati neighbourhood taverna since 1926 with a rustic courtyard, barrels of house wine, and an order-by-pointing system that keeps the tourist trade away.
Tip: No reservations are taken; arrive before 21:00 on weeknights and before 20:30 on Saturdays.
Klimataria on Theatre Square in Athens runs until past midnight every night, the Psyrri institution since 1927 where rebetiko plays live and the wine comes.
Try: Slow-cooked lamb with house red from barrels
Order: Gigandes plaki, slow-cooked lamb and a half-kilo of the house red from the barrel.
Tip: Live music runs most evenings from around 22:00; book a fortnight ahead for the weekend seatings.
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