History

The Sacramento River Delta was the largest US asparagus growing region from the 1920s through the 1980s, with thousands of acres of asparagus farms across the islands of Walnut Grove, Isleton, Locke and Rio Vista. Stockton claimed the title of Asparagus Capital of the World and held the Stockton Asparagus Festival annually until 2017. The Delta still produces a major California asparagus crop each April and May, and Sacramento's farm-to-fork rooms feature the spring vegetable on every menu during the season. The asparagus risotto at The Kitchen, Localis, Mulvaney's B&L and Camden Spit & Larder has been a defining spring plate of the city's farm-to-fork era since 2012, when Mayor Kevin Johnson declared Sacramento America's Farm to Fork Capital.

Common allergens: Dairy, Sulphites

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 40 minTotal 50 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g Sacramento Delta asparagus, trimmed and cut 3cm
  • 1.5L vegetable or light chicken stock
  • 60g unsalted butter
  • 30g extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 medium onion, finely diced
  • 320g Carnaroli or Arborio rice
  • 200ml dry white wine
  • 100g grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • Juice and zest of 1 lemon
  • 30g chopped chives
  • Sea salt and black pepper

Method

  1. Bring the stock to a low simmer in a saucepan. Keep warm.
  2. Blanch the asparagus tips (top 5cm) in salted boiling water 90 seconds. Drain into iced water, drain again, set aside. Reserve the stems.
  3. Heat 30g butter and the olive oil in a wide pan. Sweat the onion with salt 5 minutes until soft.
  4. Add the rice and stir 2 minutes until the grains are translucent at the edges. Add the asparagus stems.
  5. Pour in the wine and stir until absorbed.
  6. Add hot stock one ladle at a time, stirring continuously, waiting until each ladle is absorbed before adding the next. Continue 18 to 20 minutes until the rice is al dente.
  7. Off the heat, stir in the remaining 30g butter, the Parmigiano, lemon zest and most of the juice. The risotto should be loose and creamy, not stiff.
  8. Fold in the reserved asparagus tips. Adjust with more lemon juice, salt and pepper. Top with chives.

Tip from the editors. Cook the stems with the rice for flavor, then fold the tips in at the end so they stay bright green and crisp.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat sacramento delta asparagus risotto

Sacramento Delta Asparagus Risotto in Sacramento

The Kitchen 1 ★ ★ 4.9

Chef Kelly McCown$$$$$215land-parkBook 4 weeks ahead

The Kitchen is Sacramento's only Michelin-starred restaurant, a chef's counter format with a six-course tasting menu on Broadway in Land Park.

Order: The full six-course prix fixe with optional wine pairing

Tip: Bookings open 90 days out via Exploretock. Single shows nightly, around 18:00, dietary requests at booking only.

Mulvaney's B&L ★ 4.6

Chef Patrick Mulvaney$$$midtown

Patrick Mulvaney's daily-changing California farm-to-fork room on 19th Street in midtown Sacramento, set in an 1893 firehouse with original brick walls and soaring ceilings.

Order: Whatever Twin Peaks Orchards delivered that morning, plus the daily-changing pasta

Tip: Menu changes every day with the markets. Reservations recommended for the dining room; the courtyard takes walk-ins.

Camden Spit & Larder ★ 4.5

Chef Oliver Ridgeway$$$downtown

Oliver Ridgeway's London-inspired brasserie on Capitol Mall, Sacramento, is a Michelin Recommended downtown room of spit-roasted meats and charcuterie.

Order: Spit-roasted half chicken, the charcuterie board, Welsh rarebit

Tip: Lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday. The bar takes walk-ins; private dining seats 24.

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