Cranachan
Photo: Saskia van de Nieuwenhof from Edinburgh, United Kingdom · CC BY-SA 2.0

History

Cranachan started as a harvest-festival dessert in Highland farming households where cream, oats, heather honey and the late-summer raspberries all happened at once. The whisky came in at table rather than the kitchen originally; the cook poured a dram into each glass before service. The Edinburgh bistro version codified the layered presentation through the late twentieth century and the city's restaurants run it as their default Burns Night dessert and through the July raspberry season. The Stockbridge Market raspberries from Perthshire growers are the canonical fruit.

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Common allergens: Dairy, Gluten

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 15 minTotal 30 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 80g pinhead or medium oatmeal
  • 300ml double cream
  • 3 tbsp Scottish heather honey
  • 3 tbsp single malt Scotch whisky
  • 400g fresh raspberries (Scottish if you can find them)
  • 1 tsp icing sugar

Method

  1. Toast the oatmeal in a dry heavy pan over medium heat for 5 minutes, stirring constantly, until deep golden and smelling of biscuit. Tip onto a plate to cool.
  2. Crush half the raspberries roughly with a fork. Stir in the icing sugar.
  3. Whisk the cream to soft peaks. Stir in the honey and whisky.
  4. Fold in the toasted oatmeal, reserving a tablespoon for the top.
  5. Layer the cream and crushed raspberries in 4 wine glasses or coupes, alternating.
  6. Top each glass with whole raspberries and the reserved oatmeal.
  7. Serve within 30 minutes; the oatmeal softens if it sits.

Tip from the editors. Use a single malt with sweet, fruity notes rather than a peated one; Glenmorangie or Aberlour are reliable. Peated whisky overpowers the raspberries.

Where to eat cranachan

Cranachan in Edinburgh

The Kitchin 1 ★ ★ 4.9

££££ Tasting £145ScottishLeithChef Tom Kitchin

Tom Kitchin's Leith dining room on Commercial Quay in Edinburgh, Michelin-starred since 2007, the kitchen that brought Scottish provenance back to fine.

OrderThe Land and Sea five-course tasting menu, with optional wine pairings from a 400-bottle list.

Book6 weeks ahead

TipSaturday lunch tastings are the most reliable booking; the chef's table in the open pass accepts two with 30 days notice.

The Witchery by the Castle ★ 4.3

££££ Tasting £95ScottishOld TownChef Douglas Roberts

James Thomson's heritage dining room at the top of the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, opened in 1979 inside Boswell's Court, the city's grand-occasion fine-dining.

OrderThe Witchery Theatre menu of three courses at £50 before 18:30 or after 22:00, the only value play.

Book3 weeks ahead

TipAsk for The Secret Garden, the second dining room down the stairs; the candlelit version of the experience.

The Dome ★ 4.1

£££ ScottishNew Town

The Dome on George Street in Edinburgh's New Town, opened in 1996 inside the former Commercial Bank building, a glass-domed grand brasserie room running.

OrderSmoked salmon platter at lunch and the roast beef Wellington at dinner under the central dome.

TipThe Georgian Tea Room at the back is a quieter alternative if the main hall feels too touristy at peak hours.

Howies ★ 4.0

££ Modern ScottishOld Town

Howies on Victoria Street in Edinburgh, the Old Town flagship of David Howie Scott's Scottish-bistro mini-chain opened in 1990, the city's everyday Scottish.

OrderHaggis bonbons with whisky cream as a starter and the Aberdeen Angus steak with peppercorn sauce.

TipPre-theatre two-course menu from 17:30-19:00 is the value play. The Waterloo Place branch is the second-best room.

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Cranachan in Glasgow

The Ubiquitous Chip ★ 4.4

£££ Modern ScottishWest End

The Ubiquitous Chip has anchored Ashton Lane, Glasgow since 1971, a cobbled West End courtyard institution serving modern Scottish cooking and venison haggis.

OrderThe venison haggis with clapshot and whisky sauce, on the menu in some form for decades.

Book1 week ahead

TipThe upstairs Brasserie is cheaper and takes walk-ins; the ground-floor Restaurant is the full-dress experience.

Stravaigin ★ 4.4

£££ Modern ScottishWest End

Stravaigin has cooked 'think global, eat local' in Glasgow's West End since 1994, a Gibson Street basement pairing homemade haggis with pan-Asian plates.

OrderThe homemade haggis, neeps and tatties, on the menu since the restaurant opened.

TipThe ground-floor cafe-bar takes walk-ins and shares the kitchen; the basement restaurant is the sit-down booking.

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