History

Couscous arrived in Marseille with Algerian, Tunisian and Moroccan migration from the 1920s onwards, and consolidated as the city's defining North African dish by the 1960s. Le Femina on Rue du Musee opened in 1921 and serves a Kabyle barley couscous from the predominantly Berber region of northern Algeria; Chez Yassine on Noailles runs the Tunisian red-sauce version with merguez.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Egg

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 45 minTotal 3 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1kg lamb shank or lamb shoulder, on the bone, cut into 8 pieces
  • 6 merguez sausages
  • 500g medium couscous
  • 2 medium yellow onions, finely diced
  • 4 garlic cloves, sliced
  • 3 medium carrots, cut into thick batons
  • 3 medium turnips, peeled and quartered
  • 2 medium courgettes, cut into thick chunks
  • 1 small green cabbage, cut into wedges
  • 1 large tin chopped tomatoes (400g)
  • 2 tbsp tomato paste
  • 400g tinned chickpeas, drained
  • 2 tbsp ras el hanout
  • 1 tbsp ground cumin
  • 1 tbsp ground coriander
  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 1 tbsp sweet paprika
  • Pinch of saffron threads
  • 1 small bunch coriander, chopped
  • 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped
  • 50ml olive oil
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Harissa, to serve
  • 100g unsalted butter

Method

  1. Heat the olive oil in a heavy couscoussiere or large pot. Brown the lamb pieces in batches and set aside.
  2. Soften the onions for 8 minutes, add the garlic for 1 minute.
  3. Stir in the tomato paste, ras el hanout, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, paprika and saffron. Fry for 2 minutes.
  4. Return the lamb. Pour in the chopped tomatoes and 2 litres water. Add 2 tsp salt and a generous grind of pepper.
  5. Simmer 1 hour. Add carrots and turnips; simmer 30 minutes.
  6. Add the courgettes, cabbage and chickpeas; simmer 20 minutes more.
  7. Meanwhile, prepare the couscous: pour into a wide bowl, drizzle with olive oil and rub through your fingers to coat each grain. Pour over 600ml of just-boiled water, cover and rest 15 minutes. Fluff with a fork.
  8. Grill the merguez 3 minutes per side until crisp.
  9. Stir butter and chopped herbs through the warm couscous.
  10. Pile the couscous into deep bowls, ladle the broth and vegetables over, top with the lamb and merguez. Serve harissa and extra broth on the side.

Tip from the editors. Steam the couscous twice if you can; the Algerian-Tunisian method gives a fluffier grain. Harissa is non-negotiable at table; the broth should be mild.

Where to eat couscous marseillais

Couscous Marseillais in Marseille

Le Femina ★ 4.4

€€ Middle Eastern1er

Le Femina in Marseille's 1er Noailles has cooked Algerian Berber couscous since 1921, the same family carrying it across generations, the barley semolina.

OrderThe Berber couscous with lamb on barley semolina; the kitchen turns the dish all day.

TipClosed Sunday evening and Monday; reservation strongly recommended.

Directions

Chez Yassine ★ 4.3

€€ TunisianUntil Tue-Sun until 21:30

Chez Yassine in Marseille's 1er Noailles runs the late Tunisian counter Tuesday to Sunday until 21:30, brik with egg, ojja and kefteji at shared tables.

TryTunisian brik, ojja and kefteji

TipClosed Monday; cash and card both accepted, no reservations.

Directions

La Kahena ★ 4.1

€€ Tunisian1er

La Kahena in Marseille's 1er near the Vieux Port has cooked Tunisian halal cuisine since 1978, mosaics and portraits of beys on the walls, the couscous.

OrderThe mixed couscous and the brick with tuna and egg as a starter.

TipOpen daily, book for weekend lunch when the room fills with families.

Directions Book

Chez Sauveur ★ 4.2

€ Sicilian

Chez Sauveur in Marseille's 1er Noailles has cooked Sicilian-rooted Marseillais pizza since 1943, the Pizza Speciale around €15, the cheapest wood-fired.

TrySicilian wood-fired pizza

TipClosed Sunday and Monday; takeaway saves the queue at peak Cash is faster than card.

Directions

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